SE Senegal and Keur Saloum, 2025

Mark Finn and Abdul Jallow
November 6-18

This was our second tour to Senegal in 2025 which was more challenging than usual due to a late rainy season and localised areas of drought which affected many birds. Several of the commoner species were either absent or present in lower numbers. Wet season visitors lingered when they should have been further south mainly cuckoos and bitterns. Despite this species of interest included Dwarf Bittern, roosting African Scissor-tailed Kites, Lesser Kestrel, Fox Kestrel, Beaudouin’s Snake Eagle, African Swamphen, White-headed Lapwing, Egyptian Plover, West African Tern, African and Levaillant’s Cuckoos, Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Sun Lark, Iberian Chiffchaff, Swamp Flycatcher, Familiar Chat, Bronze-tailed Starling, Brown Sunbird, Gosling’s Bunting, Cut-throat Finch and Wilson’s Indigobird. Our next tour to Senegal is in March 2026

November 5th-6th: UK, Dakar, Popenguine, Bandia, Solome
Daily 84 New 84 Running 84
Weather: Hot and sunny with light NW winds 32c

Members of the group arrived at various times on the 5th and 6th and met up at 0800 hours. In the gardens of the hotel a colony of Village Weavers were busy and attracted other bird species including Cut-throat Finch, African Silverbill, Laughing Dove and Grey-backed Camaroptera. Offshore it was productive for sightings of Great Egret, Kelp Gull, Caspian, Sandwich and West African Terns, Osprey and Whimbrel. It was time to visit the reserve south of Popenguine where the first lagoon attracted White-faced Whistling Ducks, Malachite and Woodland Kingfishers, Little Grebe, Little Bee-eater and the commoner birds. A walk towards the cliff added an obliging Zitting Cisticola and Crested Lark. A new viewing platform at the cliff gave us views of Gosling’s Bunting, Speckled Pigeon, Little Swift and a singing Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird. Back to Popenguine and the hotel gardens where Western Olivaceous Warbler, Common Bulbul and Common Gonolek were added. Lunch was taken at Bandia where the restaurant terrace gives great views over a lagoon. Careful searching produced Broad-billed Roller, Grey-headed, Woodland and Blue-breasted Kingfishers, Striated and Squacco Herons and Black-crowned Night Herons. The scrubby bushes and water pools held African Mourning Dove, Viellot’s Barbet, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleau and Village Indigobird. One of the best birds was a Greater Honeyguide by the vehicle wash. It was time to head towards Solome for a boat trip around the bay. A good selection of gulls and terns were observed including Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Greenshank, Common Redshank, Ringed and Grey Plovers, Curlew Sandpiper, Lesser Black-backed Gulls and brief views of Mangrove Sunbird within the mangroves. 

Greater Honeyguide

November 7th: Popenguine, Kaolack, Tambacounda, Wassadou
Daily 64 New 19 Running 103
Weather: Hot and sunny 36c

A travel day east towards Wassadou. The first birding stop was near Kaolack an area of ponds with muddy margins and reeds. The srubby parts held Greater Blue-eared, Long-tailed and Chestnut-bellied Starlings, Tawny-flanked Prinia and Northern Red Bishop. On the lagoon Green and Common Sandpipers, Ruff, Western Yellow Wagtail, Little Bee-eater and the first Hamerkop of the tour. In the skies above a few White-backed Vultures and in Kaolack itself a pair of Black Storks located by Mark. The journey was long today with the next stop being another cattle pond. On arrival Piapiacs and Pied Crows were joined by three Grasshopper Buzzards. On the edges birds coming into drink included Chestnut-backed Sparrow Larks, Namaqua and Vinaceous Doves, Green Woodhoopoe and a group of Purple Starlings. On entering Tambacounda a Levaillant’s Cuckoo crossed the road. The last leg down to Wassadou seemed to take an age but it was a relief for all to arrive here.

November 8th: Wassadou
Daily 75 New 30 Running 133
Weather: Overcast with sunny spells pm. Light winds 31c

Overnight African Scops and African Wood Owls were heard at various times. The river was quite for birds but in the surrounding scrub singing Common Wattle-eye, Oriole Warbler and various doves. After we had breakfast a walk down the entrance track with the first area having Village Indigobird, Red-billed Quelea, Northern Grey-headed Sparrow, Beautiful and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds, Black-billed Wood-dove, Western Grey Plantain-eater and overhead Little Swift, Gabar Goshawk and a juvenile African Harrier Hawk. The next section of scrub held Yellow-billed Shrikes, Brown Babblers, Northern Crombec, Willow Warbler, Red-billed Firefinch, Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Senegal Coucal, Red-throated Bee-eater and in the distance a calling Pearl-spotted Owlet. Back to the river watch point where an hour long session added African Fish Eagle, Palm-nut Vulture, Egyptian Plover, White-headed, Wattled and Spur-winged Lapwings, Striated Heron, Giant, Blue-breasted, Woodland, Grey-headed and Malachite Kingfishers. Later we have a boat trip at 1600 hours. A good morning birding at Wassadou was followed by a boat trip on The Gambia River. The bushes and trees along the riverbank were productive for Western Olivaceous, Melodious and Willow Warblers, Common Redstart, Northern Black Flycatcher, European Golden Oriole, Snowy-crowned Robin Chat and singing Black-crowned Tchagra. On the cliffs and overhanging trees the group located Red-throated and Little Bee-eaters, Blue-breasted, Woodland, Grey-hooded and Malachite Kingfishers Egyptian Plovers, African Fish Eagle and Vitelline Masked Weavers. On the exposed beaches African Wattled, Spur-winged and White-headed Lapwings, Senegal Thick-knee and Hadada Ibis were located. On the river itself hunting Barn and Red-chested Swallows the latter best located by brilliant white underparts. 

Brown Babbler

November 9th: Wassadou, Gamon
Daily 76 New 17 Running 150
Weather: Hot and sunny 35c

I had arranged another boat trip in search of the fishing owl. Similar birds were seen to yesterdays visit with the addition of African Grey Woodpeckers and a pair of Swamp Flycatchers. Back to camp before 9am and then a walk through the grounds and old village. The whole area is starting to decline with ruined buildings and a generally unkempt feel. On the water tank Speckled Pigeons whilst the flowering bushes were luring Scarlet-breasted and Beautiful Sunbirds. Small groups of estrildid finches were noted and African Yellow White-eyes in a bush festooned with flowers. Out again at 1500 hours to visit forest habitats at Gamon. This proved to be a good area for birds again with a wide range of starlings including Greater and Lesser Blue-eared and Purple Glossy. Other species present included African Golden Oriole, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Senegal Parrot, Bush Petronia, West African, Barn and Red-chested Swallows, Yellow-billed Shrike, Senegal Eremomela and a pair of Double-banded Sandgrouse. On the way back to Wassadou Camp a bonus with a pair of Stone Partridge on the entrance track.

November 10th: Wassadou, Kedougou
Daily 66 New 11 Running 161
Weather: Overcast with some drizzle and sunny spells 30c

Breakfast was taken and on the road at 0745 towards Kedougou. I decided to revisit Gamon again with Hooded Vulture and Bearded Barbet seen en route. Similar birds were seen to yesterday afternoon but in lower numbers. The journey south continued with a stop at a recently burnt area which attracted Red-necked Falcon, Grey Kestrel and Grasshopper Buzzard. Further down the road a stop for lunch with sightings of Yellow-fronted Canary singing from a branch. Before entering the suburbs of Kedougou a bush fire was attracting Yellow-billed Kite, Beaudouin’s Snake and Wahlberg’s Eagles, Abyssinian Rollers and a host of unidentified swallows and martins. East of Kedougou with an afternoon visit to a bridge over the Gambia River. The scrub here was partially submerged due to late rains which maded a difference to sightings. In the drier areas Little, Village and Black-headed Weavers, Yellow-throated Leaflove, Violet Turaco and in overhanging branches a single Swamp Flycatcher.

November 11th: Kedougou, Dindefelo
Daily 90 New 17 Running 178
Weather: Overcast with sunny spells 32c

Today the group travelled towards the remote village of Dindefelo which is close to the border with Guinea Conarky. The first birding stop was along the road towards the first bridge and gully. Typical birds of this area included Senegal and Rose-ringed Parakeets, Double-spurred Francolin, Senegal Coucal, Piapiac, Yellow-billed Shrike and Bush Petronia. We then came across an area which was bustling with resident and migrant birds including Pied Flycatcher, Whinchat, Willow Warbler, Black-headed Heron, Blue-bellied Roller and White-crowned Robin Chats. Near the river a Giant Kingfisher flashed by and other species noted namely African Yellow White-eye, Tawny-flanked Prinia, African Golden Oriole and a Lanner Falcon. Further towards Dindefelo the group connected with Long-crested and Tawny Eagles, Singing Cisticola, Senegal Eremomela and Copper Sunbird. A stand of grasses attracted Northern Red and Black-winged Bishops and on telegraph poles Dark Chanting Goshawks. At Dindefelo a pass was obtained to visit the protected area. A scan of the cliffs added a pair of Fox Kestrels, Hooded Vultures, Rock Martins and African Palm Swifts. A walk around the woodland proved very quiet for birds although we added Yellow-breasted Apalis, Green Crombec, Familiar Chat and Bruce’s Green Pigeon.

November 12th: Kedougou, Dindefelo, Lamina, Gambia River
Daily 73 New 8 Running 186
Weather: Hot and sunny 38c

A rerun of yesterday was a stop being near the local abattoir. A scan of the dead trees was good for starling including Greater Blue-eared, Lesser Blue-eared, Purple, Long-tailed and Bronze-tailed. In the mature trees African Grey and West African Red-billed Hornbills, Dark Chanting and Gabar Goshawks and a pair of Red-necked Falcons. Along the Dindefelo road a Western Banded Snake Eagle showed well. At the village birdlife was similar to yesterday so we decided to head back towards the Gambia River. En route three Yellow-billed Oxpeckers feeding on a donkey was a bonus sighting. At the abattoir Hooded and White-backed Vultures showed well no doubt feeding on off cuts. Lamina was next an area of recently burnt ground which proved to be productive for Chestnut-backed and Sun Larks, Bush Petronia and hunting Brown-throated Buntings. Last stop was the bridge where nothing new was noted.

November 13th: Kedougou, Kaolack Toubacouda
Daily 60 New 3 Running 189
Weather: Hot and sunny 34c

Today was a long haul from SE Senegal to Keur Saloum on the border with The Gambia. Along the route we stopped a few times for breaks and birding at a few waterholes and natural lakes.The only new birds recorded were Western Marsh Harrier, Mosque Swallow and a calling Grey-headed Bushshrike. Arrived around 1830 hours for the four nights we have in the Saloum Delta.

November 14th: Keur Saloum, Messira, Saloum Delta
Daily 85 New 9 Running 198
Weather: Hot and sunny with light winds 40c

Before breakfast a walk outside the hotel searching for birds. It was slow to start with until a recently harvested peanut field. Small finches were in abundance with sightings of Red-billed Firefinch, Red-cheeked Cordonbleau, Lavender and Black-rumped Waxbills and Village Indigobird. An adult African Green Pigeon which is scarce in Keur Saloum landed on a tree top with good numbers of Senegal Parrots and Rose-ringed Parakeets. In the gardens the group recorded Common Gonolek, Brown Babbler, doves and Bearded Barbet. Back for breakfast and then birding along the rutted road to Messira a poor fishing port. The first stop added a female Northern Anteater Chat, Western Yellow Wagtails, African Silverbill, Yellow-fronted Canary, Zitting Cisticola and Village Weavers. It was a good morning for raptors including Hooded Vulture, Lanner Falcon, Lizard Buzzard, Yellow-billed Kite and Wahlberg’s Eagle. A stop on the bridge and adjacent forest produced nothing of note apart from calling European Bee-eaters. At Missira a scan of the mudflats revealed a few waders, gulls and terns. Caspian and Sandwich Terns, Grey-hooded and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, Western Reef Egret, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank and Eurasian Oystercatcher were all seen. At the hotel views of Goliath Heron and Palmnut Vulture on the mud flats. An afternoon boat trip into the Saloum Delta which is dominated by stands of mangrove and sand bars at low tide. In no time at all we had located wintering Ospreys and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters from further north in Morocco. In the mangroves we located calling Blue-breasted Kingisher, Brown Sunbird, Common Wattle-eye, African Darter and in the skies Short-toed Snake Eagle.

Goliath Heron

November 15th: Keur Saloum, Coular Road, Passy, Kousmar Island
Daily 70 New 5 Running 203
Weather: Hot and sunny 37c

Similar birds were around the hotel gardens. After breakfast we headed east into a vast bush area dotted with trees. It was hard work as many of the ponds had dried up and the ground had not been burnt yet because of late rains. A rather frustrating morning with few birds the highlights being Dark Chanting Goshawk, Gabar Goshawk, African Harrier Hawk and Grasshopper Buzzard. Lunch was taken at the hotel and then to Passy and Kousmar Island. Our main interest was the African Scissor-tailed Kite roost on Kousmar Island. From 1630 the kites started to arrive probably numbering around 3000 birds in total. On the mud flats over 150 Lesser Kestrels. Other species of note included Ringed Plover, Common Greenshank, Double-spurred Francolin, White-breasted and Reed Cormorants and Caspian Tern. 

African Swallow-tailed Kite

November 16th: Keur Saloum, Passy, Saloum Delta
Daily 79 New 9 Running 212
Weather: Hot and sunny 36c

A later breakfast this morning was followed by a visit to rice fields south of Passy. On the way brief views of Helmeted Guineafowl which is rarely seen away from protected areas. The fields were interesting for a wide range of species including African Wattled and Spur-winged Lapwings, Glossy Ibis, Western Cattle Egret, Little Bee-eater, Green Sandpiper and a wintering Sedge Warbler. Two large trees appeared to be a magnet for birds as the group located Woodland Kingfisher, Pygmy Sunbird, Willow Warbler, Black-headed Weaver, both the common hornbills and Bearded Barbet. A lily-covered pond had Little Grebe, Malachite Kingfisher and best of all two Dwarf Bitterns a rare breeding bird which occurs in the rainy season. On the road back towards the hotel a tidal lagoon held Common Greenshank, Common Redshank, Grey Plover, Wire-tailed Swallows and two Beaudouin’s Snake Eagles. An early lunch was taken followed by another boat trip into the delta. Similar birds were seen from the previous visit with close views of Goliath Heron, Osprey and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters. Exposed islands of mud held Little Stint, Ringed Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Gull-billed, West African, Sandwich and Caspian Terns and Eurasian Oystercatcher. In the mangroves a Purple Heron was located plus good views of Brown Sunbird.

Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters

November 17th: Passy, Kaolack Saltpans, N2 Pools, Bandia
Daily 83 New 5 Running 217
Weather: Hot and sunny 40c

Today we travelled north towards the junction town of Kaolack. En route several saltpans and seasonal lakes were visited. To the south of Passy the rice fields held similar birds to two days ago so I pressed on to the extensive saltpans near Kaolack. An interesting mix of birds were present including the first Slender-billed Gulls of the trip. Near the main junction another pan held high numbers of Greater Flamingo, Grey-hooded Gulls, Eurasian Spoonbill, Pied Avocet and Black-tailed Godwits. Other species present included Little Stint, Ruff, Curlew Sandpiper and Crested Larks. On the road towards Dakar a stop for lunch at an old auberge which offered us shade under a blazing sun. A visit to another set of ponds on the Kaolack-Fatick border added a range of the commoner birds and a pair of Collared Mourning Doves. Our final spot at Bandia was a pleasant experience with no people present and plenty of birds around the pond which is badly affected by the invasive water cabbage. A range of kingfishers included Malachite, Pied, Woodland and Grey-headed. 

November 18th: Mbour and ponds south of Nianing
Daily 89 New 18 Final 235
Weather: Hot and sunny 40c 

Our final day in Senegal was spent birding areas south of Mbour a bustling town which attracts many Senegalese to markets and an increasing tourist market along the coast. Our main interest was the varied habitats of seasonal ponds, vegetable gardens and coastal lagoons. At Popenguine a Blue-naped Mousebird was seen with a further two later in the day. The first stop with cloudy overhead conditions brought down wintering Pallid Swifts. On the pans which are badly littered with rubbish sightings of Common and Wood Sandpipers, Ruff, Grey Plover, Ruddy Turnstone, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Caspian and Sandwich Terns. Just off the main road a track led to another pool with roosting terns and gulls plus the first Little Ringed Plovers of the trip. To our surprise an African Cuckoo flew past which is mainly a wet season visitor. The final spot was pools near Pointe Sarene which are seasonal in nature and offer exceptional birding. On the open waters egrets, African Swamphen, Common Moorhen, White-breasted and Reed Cormorants, Glossy Ibis, Black-headed, Grey and Little Herons. Waders were few but included Common Snipe, Wood and Common Sandpipers. A few passerines were found in the acacia trees with the group recording Willow Warbler, Iberian Chiffchaffs, Western Subalpine Warbler, White and Western Yellow Wagtails and Variable Sunbirds.