Western Isles 2026

Mark Finn
Photos: Jo Finn
September 20-26

This was our annual autumn tour to the Western Isles which was challenging this year due to ferry changes and inclement weather and winds. Despite the disruptions the group recorded a good selection of waders and raptors. Of note was a Glossy Ibis on Barra, Buff-breasted and Pectoral Sandpipers on Benbecula and excellent views of Golden and White-tailed Eagles. Near to our base a pair of Short-eared Owls showed well. Passerines were generally elusive apart from a group on Twite on Harris.

The next tours to the Western Isles are in May and September of 2027

September 20th: Inverness, Uig, Tarbert, Luskentyre Doune
Daily 33 New 33 Running 33
Weather: Rather mixed with sunshine and showers on a W wind 13c

I picked up everybody in Inverness and made the journey across Skye to the ferry port at Uig. Not too much birdlife on the route apart from a female Eurasian Sparrowhawk crossing the road. At Uig the ferry left on time for Tarbert in Harris. The crossing provided us with a range of seabirds including Northern Gannet, Black-legged Kittiwake, European Storm Petrels, Arctic Skua, Common Guillemot and Razorbill. The last two species were common in the sheltered waters near Tarbert. Harris is mainly mountainous and indented with many firths and offshore islands. I decided to head towards Luskentyre which overlooks the uninhabited island of Taransay. Careful scanning eventually provided us with sightings of Horned Grebe and Common Scoter plus a party of Twite in the machir. It was time to head north and our hotel at Doune. A highlight en route was an adult White-tailed Eagle flying up a steep valley.

Dunlin

September 21: Doune, Tarbert, Lochmaddy, Grenitote, Balranald area
Daily 46 New 22 Running 55
Weather: Rain and showers on a SW wind 15c

A day of cloud and rain awaited us as I headed towards Tarbert and the ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist. The gardens of the hotel had European Robin and a pair of Common Stonechats. Checked in at Tarbert where the harbour held Grey Heron, various gull species and Common Guillemots hunting fish close to the banks. The trees attracted Common Woodpigeon an uncommon resident of the lower islands. The sea journey straddled the coast with the commoner species being observed plus two Great Skuas and a party of Manx Shearwaters near Lochmaddy. On arrival at Lochmaddy I travelled to the parking area at Grenitote which offers views over the mudflats and surrounding fields. From the parking area close views of Grey, European Golden and Common Ringed Plovers, Dunlin, Sanderling, Bar-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, Ruddy Turnstone, Northern Lapwing and Common Gulls. The coast road passes a few areas with grazing cattle which attracted groups of lapwings and golden plovers. The road leading towards the St Kilda allowed us to watch a male Hen Harrier and Common Buzzards. Low cloud was starting to affect birding so I dropped to lower levels to visit areas around Balranald. The best was watching a female Merlin perched on a telegraph pole before flying low across the loch and moorland. 

September 22nd: Eriskay, Barra, Eoligarry, Castlebay, Glen, Rubha a’Mhuile
Daily 54 New 16 Running 71
Weather: Early rain giving way to a sunny day with WSW winds 15c

Today I travelled south to Eriskay the departure port for the southernmost island of Barra. On the way we had brief views of a Short-eared Owl and on a lochan Little Grebe and Common Moorhen. The ferry crossing to Barra was productive for Red-throated Loons, Common Eider, Northern Gannet, Common and Black Guillemots and on a grassy island two adult White-tailed Eagles. On Barra the first spot was Eoligarry and the trees behind the church, not too much apart from a juvenile European Goldfinch. A few more areas of woodland and coast were checked before arriving in Castlebay the largest settlement of Barra. Luck was with us as Ainslie located a Glossy Ibis feeding in an area of seaweed by the marina. The trees held a migrant Willow Warbler, Blackbird and the endemic race of Song Thrush. Back to the ferry and the crossing to Eriskay and then I decided to visit Rubha a’Mhuile. The loch by the rough track attracted a Peregrine Falcon hunting the Eurasian Teal flock. In the stubble fields we watched good numbers of Northern Lapwing and European Golden Plovers. At the end the views of the bay and offshore rocks attract many birds. The most numerous were Sanderling, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit and Ringed Plover. In the freshwater loch the group located at least two Tufted Ducks, Grey Heron and Mute Swans. 

Glossy Ibis

September 23rd: The Range, Coot Loch, Stinky Bay, Balranald area, Committee Road, Orasay
Daily 61 New 12 Running 83
Weather: Sunny with light S winds 15c

Birds in the garden were the same as yesterday. After breakfast we headed towards The Range and explore the extensive grassland habitat, seasonal pools and hummocks. On arrival we quickly located flocks of Northern Lapwings and European Golden Plovers with the latter having a Buff-breasted Sandpiper a scarce but regular migrant from the High Arctic of North America. All the time a pair of White-tailed Eagles watched from a vantage point and a female Hen Harrier in the background. A scan of Loch Bee produced a Pectoral Sandpiper, Common Greenshank and wildfowl including Eurasian Wigeon, Common Teal and Greylag Geese. I picked up supplies in Benbecula and headed towards Coot Loch which had Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Little Grebe, Common Coot and Common Moorhen. Further along the road Stinky Bay held the commoner birds plus a group of juvenile Common Eiders. Next was Balranald with a loch holding Whooper and Mute Swans, Tufted Duck and two Common Goldeneyes. The point at Balranald looks toward the uninhabited Monarch Islands. On the beach we observed good numbers of Sanderling, Ringed Plover and Bar-tailed Godwit whilst the machir had hunting Hen Harriers. Committee Road is a raptor hotspot with today being a little under par with sighting of Eurasian Kestrel and Eurasian Sparrowhawk. I ended the day near Orasay with the highlight being two Short-eared Owls.

Short-eared Owl

September 24th: Orasay, Loch Eynort, Ford Terrace, Lochmaddy, Uig, Tarbert, Stornoway
Daily 45 New 3 Running 86
Weather: Rain on a WSW wind 12c

A truly dreadful day for weather was the already fragile ferry system under pressure. I started with a visit to the plantation at Loch Eynort to try and avoid the worst of the wet windy conditions. A group of Red-breasted Merganser was seen in a sheltered spot of Loch Eynort. The trees at the plantation held singing European Robins but little else. Ford Terrace was next where the tide was low attracting a selection of waders which included Grey, European Golden and Ringed Plovers, Sanderling, Ruddy Turnstone, Eurasian Curlew and the commoner gulls. I decided to head towards Lochmaddy ferry terminal and check on the status, thankfully it was positive. Seawatching from the ferry produced sightings of Sooty and Manx Shearwaters, Leach’s and European Storm Petrels and Arctic Skuas. At Uig I hand to take the van onshore and re-board the ferry for Tarbert on Harris. The journey went well despite the conditions.

September 25th: Stornoway, Mealabost, Butt of Lewis, Loch Stiapabhat, Eisgen
Daily 49 New 3 Running 89
Weather: Rather mixed with showers and sunshine on a SW wind 13c

First stop was Mealabost near Stornoway airport. At the car park we could scan the sheltered bay which had Common and Red-throated Loons, Common Scoter, the usual gulls and two Common Goldeneyes on the freshwater lochan. In the centre of Stornoway a Rook was located near the castle. Butt of Lewis in the most NW point of mainland Europe offering views into the Atlantic Ocean. Offshore we noted Northern Gannets, Northern Fulmar, Great Cormorant, European Shag, Black-legged Kittiwake, Sooty Shearwater, Common Guillemot and Razorbill. Loch Stiapabhat is nearby and today was eerily quiet for birds. Mute and Whooper Swan, Eurasian Wigeon, Mallard, Eurasian Curlew and Northern Lapwing was present. On the boardwalk a group of Rock Pipits looked out of place. I decided to visit Eisgen a remote lodge for eagles. In a short while we found Golden and White-tailed Eagles and a few Barn Swallows.

September 26th: Stornoway, Ullapool, Inverness
Daily n/r New 0 Final 89
Weather: Mixed on a SW wind 12c

An early ferry departure back to Ullapool and sea-watching en route. No new birds were seen although the number of auks was up near the Loch Broom entrance.