| Leading Tours since 1987
This was our second tour to Sri Lanka in 2005 and it proved highly successful not only for the endemic birds but several vagrants to the island. The majority of endemic birds were seen well although road conditions meant we were unable to visit an area for the endemic scops-owl. Unusual species included a sub-adult Bonelli's Eagle at Sigiriya, juvenile Great Knot at Hambantota and a dark-morph Booted Eagle at Bundala. The transport, accommodation and ground arrangements by Nature Odyssey were excellent. I am indebted to Yata for handling the tour so well and Siri for driving along the islands busy and interesting road system.
December 15th/16th: London Heathrow - Colombo - Ranwila We assembled at Heathrow Airport Terminal 4 to check in with Air Lanka and the flight down to Colombo. The flight went smoothly and arrived on time at Colombo. After passing through immigration we had a long wait for our luggage to arrive. Before meeting Yata we purchased Sri Lanka rupees. The short journey up to Ranwila took no time at all and a boat trip had been arranged for 1600 hours. Out of the quay we headed north and checked the palm-fringed lagoon recording Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Striated Heron, Stork-billed and White-throated Kingfishers, White-breasted Waterhen and migrant Common Sandpipers from further north. We turned around and passed the hotel and eventually joined a rather run-down and overgrown canal system. Above us a single Greater Thick-knee, Asian Palm Swift and parties of Whiskered Terns. In the rank reed-side vegetation we located wintering Blythe's Reed Warblers and Plain-coloured Prinias. Our journey took us further upstream with pairs of Stork-billed Kingfishers and Asian Koels for company. A stop near a reedbed added Black Bittern, Purple Heron and Purple-rumped Sunbirds. Near some old palms we located Indian Roller and Black-rumped Flamebacks. By this time dusk was starting to fall and we turned round to retrace our route. We passed a roost of egrets and located two Yellow Bitterns before reaching base. An enjoyable and relaxing first afternoon in Sri Lanka.
December 17th: Ranwila - Kitulgala Before breakfast we checked the sea observing Crested, Gull-billed and Little Terns. After checking out we headed in a north easterly direction to Kitulgala a small town situated by patches of rain-forest. En route paddy fields held the usual egrets and Red-wattled Lapwings and our first Jungle Crows of the tour. A stop on the outskirts of a village provided us with an immature Shikra perched in a palm tree. Further along the road we found our first endemic - Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill resting in a large tree. Kitulgala was soon reached and our base for one night. Checked-in and walked towards the main gate where we located Indian Pitta, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Yellow-browed Bulbul, Black-hooded Oriole and several Sri Lanka Hanging Parrots. In the afternoon we birded along a road running through secondary forest and abandoned rubber and tea plantations. We were in for some exceptional birding in rather poor weather conditions. Our first bird was an Emerald Dove perched in the open on a palm frond. Further on a bare tree with some fruits attracted Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrikes, Brown-headed and Yellow-fronted Barbets. Nearby a dead palm proved to be a magnet for Lesser Yellownape and Black-rumped Flameback. Another 200m up the road we encountered a feeding flock led by a Racket-tailed Drongo. The 'policeman' of the forest had lured Common Iora, Scarlet Minivet and Spot-winged Thrush into the following flock. A party of Layard's Parakeets flew past whilst Brown Shrike, Asian Brown Flycatcher and Green Imperial Pigeon were located on dead tree snags. Near the village White-rumped Munia's bathing in a rock pool and a perched Crested Serpent Eagle. In a well-vegetated garden Black-naped Monarch, Black Bulbul and Oriental White-eye. Returned to base where across the river we observed Indian Swiftlet and Pompadour Green Pigeon.
December 18th: Kitulgala - Ratnapurna Heavy
rain showers greeted us just before 0600 this unseasonable weather
was to stay with us for the day. After breakfast we walked down
to the riverbank and crossed over in a dugout canoe. Rocks in
the centre attracted Little Cormorant, Common Sandpiper and Grey
Wagtail. By the small hut we watched a Brown-breasted Flycatcher
hunting insects in the rain. We waited until the rain abated and
then walked through to the village boundary. Near the temple Bob
located the rare and localised Green-billed Coucal clambering
around in a vine-covered palm. Nearby a dead tree had Brown-capped
Woodpecker, Large-billed Leaf Warbler and Black-naped Monarchs.
We entered the forest walking along leaf-littered trails to an
area of rice paddies. Few birds along the way apart from Spot-winged
Thrush. The paddy fields held our first Asian Paradise Flycatchers.
Returned to base for lunch where we found another Green-billed
Coucal and an Oriental Honey Buzzard being mobbed by crows. After
lunch we travelled to Ratnapurna in heavy rain this resulted in
a change of plan so we headed towards the next hotel and not Gilimale
as planned. Not far from Kitulgala we stopped for a perched White-bellied
Sea-eagle. On arrival at Ratnapurna we checked the hotel grounds
adding Little Swift, Small Minivet, Sri Lanka Small Barbet and
Black-headed Munias. As dusk started to fall (earlier than usual)
Pompadour Green Pigeons going to roost. Tomorrow we leave early
to visit Sinharaja an area of pristine forest. December 19th: Ratnapurna - Sinharaja
Weather: Overcast with occasional rain showers, 26c. An early start to reach Sinharaja rain-forest at first light. On reaching the park headquarters we transferred to a rather old jeep for the short but bumpy journey to Martins Bungalow. We then embarked on the first of two walks into the forest along wide tracks surrounded by thick vegetation and mature trees. High in the forest canopy two White-cheeked Starlings were feeding on fruits. Continuing along the path produced Bright-green Warbler, White-throated Flowerpecker, Dark-fronted Babbler and the commoner forest birds. A detour was made into a rather sandy area with thin trees and clear running forest streams. Feeding flock located including two endemic species in Sri Lanka Blue Magpie and the rather scarce Ashy-headed Laughingthrush. We stopped at the research station and consequently located a Green Pit Viper resting in a small bush (excellent photo opportunities of this highly venomous snake). We walked beyond the centre recording Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Malabar Trogon, Sri Lanka Junglefowl and perhaps best of all three low-flying Brown-backed Needletails. Returned to Martins for lunch with a perched Besra and calling Chestnut-backed Owlets. After a pleasant lunch we returned to the forest and immediately located another flock with high numbers of Red-faced Malkohas and Orange-billed Babblers. Near the research centre Sri Lanka Myna. The highlight of the afternoon was another feeding flock near the centre containing large numbers of endemic birds including two Indian Scimitar Babblers. Back to the park entrance and the jeep journey into the village. Here we managed to locate a male Sri Lanka Frogmouth a fitting end to an excellent days birding.
December 20th: Ratnapurna - Embilipitiya - Uda Walawe A later start today as we travelled south to Embilipitya. En route we passed several rice paddies and open gem pits. On the road our first stop produced a juvenile Changeable Hawk Eagle, Plum-headed Parakeets (in flight), Barn Swallow, and Ashy Woodswallow, Zitting Cisticola and huge flocks of Scaly-breasted and Tricoloured Munias. At 1130 we arrived at the Centauria Inn in Embilipitya and walked around the gardens and birdwatched over the tank. The former held White-browed Bulbuls, Purple-rumped and Long-billed Sunbirds. On the tank itself Spot-billed Pelican, White-bellied Sea Eagles, Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns and a single Black-headed Ibis. Lunch was taken at 1230 and an hour later we made the short journey to the excellent Uda Walawe reserve. At the park entrance we encountered Little Green Bee-eaters, White-browed Fantail, Golden-fronted Leafbird and the first of many Ashy Prinias. We passed through the main gate and joined the major track. The first pool held a wintering Green Sandpiper, Sri Lanka Stilt and in grassland and bushes Common Buzzard, Indian Robin and Paddyfield Pipits. Further along the track we came across the main dam dotted with scores of dead trees. In bushes we located Baya and Streaked Weavers, Rufous-winged Bushlark, Sirkeer Malkoha and Jacobin Cuckoos. On the track in front of us Yellow-wattled Lapwings and parties of Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks. On the lake the usual herons, egrets and cormorants and a pair of Grey-headed Fish Eagles. At the end of the track we found Coppersmith Barbet, Wood Sandpiper, Yellow Wagtail and overhead an Alpine Swift. We retraced our journey and turned off towards another large tank. Scrubby areas here had Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Yellow-eyed Babbler and Yellow-crowned Woodpecker. On the track up to five Barred Button-quails. A section of old decaying trees proved attractive to Rose-ringed and Alexandrine Parakeets and a few Crested Treeswifts. We ended the day near another seasonal tank with a hunting male Pallid Harrier and two endemic Sri Lanka Swallows.
December 21st: Embilipitiya - Kelametiya - Hambantota. Checked out of the Centauria Hotel and headed towards the coast with a stop at Mandalla Tank. On arrival we found our first Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, White-winged and Gull-billed Terns, Purple Swamphens and sizeable flocks of Sri Lankan Stilts. Across the road drained paddy fields attracted huge numbers of shorebirds including Pacific Golden Plovers, Black-tailed Godwit, Wood, Curlew, Marsh and Common Sandpipers, Mongolian Sandplover, Kentish Plover, Little Stint and Common Redshank. The paddies were also attractive to thousands of egrets, Black-headed Ibis, Lesser Whistling Ducks and Red-wattled Lapwings. Next on the agenda was Kelametiya an important coastal reserve for birdlife. In the mangrove trees a singing Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike whilst the grassland held Paddyfield Pipit, Yellow Wagtail, Yellow-wattled Lapwings and Common Peafowl and in the shallows Common Greenshank. On exiting Kelametiya a juvenile Jacobin Cuckoo and Yellow Bittern. Checked in at the Oasis Hotel for a three night stay. At 1515 we visited lagoons close to Hambantota where we located a wide selection of waders including Little and Temminck's Stints, Grey Plover, Spotted Redshank and a surprise find in Great Knot. Nearby a flooded grass area attracted Eurasian Thick-knee and Whimbrel. Passed through Hambantota to check the saltpans but they appeared to be devoid of birds. We returned to Kelametiya for the last two hours of daylight. We stopped near a section of mangroves and had close views of Black Bittern and Blue-faced Malkoha. Beyond on the fields a significant wader roost had developed comprising of Mongolian Plover and Ruddy Turnstone. Wetter sectors held Pintail Snipe. Also present were Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks and two Oriental Skylarks. We checked the last lagoon but only found Striated Heron and Pied Kingfisher. Returned to base after a wonderful days birding in the dry zone. December
22nd: Bundala - Kelametiya We left the hotel at 0545 in order to reach Bundala a Ramsar site for birds. Our first stop was a shallow lagoon before the park headquarters. We added Eurasian Spoonbill, Painted Stork, Indian Black-headed Gull, Saunders’s Tern and Ruff to the trip list. Entered the park at 0700 with a singing Common Iora in a dead tree. Further along the first track we located Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Blue-faced Malkoha and literally dozens of Little Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters. We then travelled across a narrow bund with bird-rich lagoons on either side. The highlight here was parties of Small Pratincoles resting on the track. Next was an area of acacia bushes and grassland dotted with dead or dying trees. Good numbers of Rosy Starlings present an irregular winter visitor to Sri Lanka. In a reed-fringed lagoon we observed the endemic race of Clamorous Reed Warbler, Purple Swamphen and Grey-headed Fish Eagle. On the lagoon scores of Spot-billed Pelicans, herons, egrets and cormorants and parties of Saunders’s Terns and Caspian Terns. In a flooded field we encountered Pintail Snipe, Eurasian Curlew, Intermediate Egret and Yellow Bittern. Eventually we reached the end of the track and located three juvenile Greater Flamingos. Returned to the entrance recording pairs of the attractive Chestnut-headed Bee-eater and perched in a dead tree a dark phase Booted Eagle. After lunch we have another visit to Kelametiya and a section of coastline planned. At the latter Crested and Common Terns plus the usual waders utilising the rice paddies. We returned to the main road and went onto Kelametiya, before the turning up to 6000 Black-tailed Godwits feeding in a drained rice paddie. At Kelametiya we encountered similar birds to yesterday with the addition of Common Woodshrike and a marked increase in Yellow Wagtail numbers. December
23rd: Hambantota - Tissa Tank - Yala A later start today as we headed up the coast to Tissa and Yala via Hambantota. Beyond Hambantota we encountered a feeding frenzy of waterbirds near the saltworks. Close views of egrets, cormorants, Painted Stork and Eurasian Spoonbill. We pressed onto Tissa a small town surrounded by lily-covered tanks. On arrival we walked down towards the main tank by a canal recording Stork-billed Kingfishers and the first Blue-winged Leafbird of the tour. Nearby a visit to a private garden produced Brown Fish Owl. On the tank the usual waterbirds with the addition of Cotton Pygmy Goose. Lunch taken at Tissa followed by a safari into Yala National Park. As normal Yala was an incredibly difficult and frustrating place to see birds. We added the impressive Black-necked Stork, Plaintive Cuckoo, Brahminy Starling and Indian Silverbill to our list. On exiting the park we were fortunate to see a female Sloth Bear and well-grown cub. Tomorrow we head inland towards the old hill resort town of Nurewa Eliya. December
24th: Hambantota - Adisham - Surrey Estate - Nurewa Eliya After breakfast we left the lowlands and travelled to Ella where the road rises up to the highlands of Sri Lanka. At Walaweya a Black-shouldered Kite was observed on top of a large tree. Just beyond the town a pair of Woolly-necked Storks rested in a dead tree. After lunch we visited Adisham a relict tract of forest surrounded by tea plantations. I located a roosting Brown Wood Owl perched in hanging vines. Near the wardens hut Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Bright-green Warbler and Sri Lanka White-eye. Next on the agenda was Surrey Estate a sad remnant of what it was a few years ago. En route Jo located Greater Flameback, Great (Grey) Tit, Mountain Hawk Eagles, Dull-blue Flycatcher and a pair of Brown-capped Babblers. We went on to Surrey Estate where we added Hill Mynah. Arrived at the Galway Forest Lodge for a two night stay. December
25th: Nurewa Eliya - Horton Plains - Victoria Park Departure at 0500 for the winding journey up to Horton Plains, since our last visit (January 2005) a barrier and entrance fee have been introduced. At the arrenga pool we stopped until first light was upon us. First bird to appear was the endemic sub-species of Eurasian Blackbird. On the pool itself Grey Wagtail and in overhanging bushes Large-billed Leaf Warblers. Our target bird Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush introduced itself with its distinctive calls. We eventually had excellent views of this rare and endangered endemic. We walked up the road hearing Sri Lanka Woodpigeon, observing Yellow-eared Bulbuls and Sri Lanka White-eyes and Indian Scimitar Babblers. A section of grassland produced Richard's Pipits and a hunting Besra. Returned to base stopping at a marsh where Bob had fleeting views of a Black-throated Munia. Back to Nuwera Eliya for lunch with a visit to Victoria Park at 1600 hours. On arrival at Victoria Park we found it packed with people which subsequently affected the birding. After two hours checking the river and park boundaries for birds we had added Forest Wagtails and Indian Blue Robin. December
26th: Nurewa Eliya - Kandy After leaving the cooler climate of Nurewa Eliya we made the descent to Kandy. The journey was slow due to major road improvements. At precisely 0930 we stopped for a two-minute silence in respect of the Tsunami victims of 2004 exactly one year ago. A stop at Glenloch produced several Hill Swallows a highly localised species in Sri Lanka and two Plum-headed Parakeets in flight. Further down flight views of Mountain Hawk and Crested Serpent Eagles. On arrival in Kandy we transferred to the excellent Citadel Hotel situated above the river. This afternoon we visit Kandy Botanical Gardens an enjoyable place to amble and study birds. We arrived at 1600 and walked down the main path towards a stand of mature trees and plants. Near the greenhouse complex we located Layard's Parakeet, Oriental Honey Buzzard and a male Tickell's Blue Flycatcher. The tops of dead trees attracted good numbers of Hill Mynah's. In a recently cut area up to seven Forest Wagtails and an Indian Pitta standing in the open (unusual). We wandered on to a more open area of grassland surrounded by several fruiting trees. In the first tree Golden-fronted and Blue-winged Leafbirds, Sri Lanka Small Barbet and Large-billed Leaf Warblers. Near the cafe Pompadour Green Pigeons, Oriental White-eye and a male Asian Koel. Returned to base after a productive afternoons birding.
December 27th: Kandy - Habarana - Sigiriya We left Kandy at 0800 and joined the road northwards to Jaffna and Trincomalee. On the outskirts of the city we stopped to look at an active heron and cormorant colony. The journey north passed through sectors of the wet zone and eventually Dambulla a bustling town in the dry zone. Arrived at Habarana and checked into the impressive and eco-friendly 'The Lodge'. I arranged to visit the old road to Sigiriya at 1500. In roadside scrub we located White-rumped Sharmas and both Grey-breasted and Jungle Prinias. We made our way to a section of dry forest overlooked by the famous Sigiriya Rock Fortress. Emerald Dove and Brown-capped Babblers found on the woodland floor. Jo then found a wintering Orange-headed Thrush perched on a low branch. Another surprise came when an Asian Drongo-Cuckoo appeared above our heads with a Black Drongo the former parasising Common Ioras which were also present. At the junction we continued straight on and were immediately made aware of small birds mobbing something. The answer was a Brown Fish Owl which flew off into cover. Nearby a Greater Flameback was on territory drumming on a dead tree. Other species recorded included the 'white form' of Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Black-naped Monarch, Black-crested Bulbul and Golden-fronted Leafbird. Returned to base after a rewarding afternoons birding.
December 28th: Sigiriya - Kaudulla Returned to Sigiriya with similar birds to yesterday. Near the temple we enjoyed extended views of Asian Drongo-Cuckoo, and in a dead tree, Blue-faced Malkohas. Back to the old road with a stop en route near a series of pools. Close views of an adult Crested Serpent Eagle perched and looking downwards for prey. At the junction we found White-browed Bulbuls, Common Ioras, Common Tailorbird and overhead a sub-adult Bonelli's Eagle (vagrant to Sri Lanka). Returned to base with an afternoon safari to Kaudulla and adjacent area planned. We left for Kaudulla at 1400 hours taking a dirt track to the park entrance. Jacobin Cuckoo was the only bird of note. Checked in and purchased entrance tickets at park headquarters. We drove along an elevated section of road before dropping down into extensive grassland with lakes. Brahminy Kites were numerous along with Painted Storks and Whiskered Terns. Luck was with us as a Lesser Adjutant passed overhead. Careful scrutiny of the lakeshore produced migrant Garganey and Northern Pintails. Along the tracks we encountered Paddyfield Pipits, Rufous-winged Bushlarks, Indian Rollers and Red-wattled Lapwings. Groups of Indian Elephants were also present grazing near the lake. On the lake dead trees held Grey-headed and White-bellied Sea Eagles. We waited until dusk recording Jerdon's Nightjar and calling Indian Nightjars. The end to a highly successful birding tour of Sri Lanka. December 29th: Habarana - Colombo - London Heathrow Departed at 0715 for the long drive back to Colombo. Check-in with Air Lanka was quick and efficient although most seats had been pre-allocated to locals. The flight back to London was slow due to a strong headwind of 50 miles per hour over the Arabian Peninsula. Landed in London before 2000 hours the end to a long travel day from Asia.
Our 2005 tour to Sri Lanka was extremely successful for endemic birds including the recently described Serendibs Scops Owl. Numbers of species observed was down on previous visits due to the closure of Bundala and Yala National Parks (tsunami damage).This in effect denied us several species of terns, gulls and shorebirds. After making a few adjustments to the itinerary an enjoyable tour was had by all. I am again grateful for Sumit for driving us safely around Sri Lanka avoiding various obstructions in the form of dogs and other animals. Douglas for providing us with bottled water and general help and finally Yatta for dealing with hotels and general administration. I am sure the following diary format and birdlist will bring back happy memories. January 9th/10th: London - Colombo - Ranweli. Weather:
Cool in London, warm on arrival in Colombo, 5c/27c. We met up at Heathrow Airport Terminal 4 for the flight to Colombo. Delayed by 45 minutes due to the late arrival of the incoming aircraft. Our route passed over Eastern Europe, Arabian Peninsula and finally the Indian Ocean and western seaboard of southern India. On arrival we passed through immigration and passport formalities and picked up our bags. At first light we encountered our first House Crows foraging around streets and shops. The Ranweli Holiday Village is an eco-friendly hotel reached by crossing a lagoon a peaceful and beautiful location. We checked into our rooms and arranged to explore the extensive gardens at 1100. Close views of commoner Sri Lankan birds including Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie Robins, Yellow-billed Babbler, Purple-rumped and Long-billed Sunbirds and Oriental White-eye. Lunch taken at 1300 followed by a walk towards the tennis courts. The only birds of interest being Brahminy Kites. The highlight of our day was to come with a boat trip along a canal system bordering the coast. Towards Colombo wires held Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, White-throated and Stork-billed Kingfishers whilst mangrove stems attracted Yellow Bittern and Striated Herons. At the end of the lagoon we encountered endemic Sri Lanka Stilts, Little and Indian Cormorants, Red-wattled Lapwings, Common Sandpiper, Whimbrel and Pied Kingfishers the latter being a rather localised bird. Retraced our steps passing the dock and into a narrow vegetation-lined canal holding Great, Little and Cattle Egrets roosting in palms. Further on emergent trees attracted Black-rumped Flamebacks, Hill Myna and Brown-headed Barbets. Returned to base a tired but contented group. Tomorrow we head inland towards the wet zone forests. January 11th: Ranweli - Belanwila - Kitulgala.
Weather: Hot and sunny, 30c. Checked out at Ranweli with the commoner birds around the grounds and lagoon. A wintering Brown Shrike was the only addition perched in a dead tree. Headed into Colombo and Belanwila, a degraded marsh on the eastern side. Seafront pools held Spot-billed Pelicans and the two commoner cormorants. At Belanwila several species were observed including Great, Intermediate, Little and Cattle Egrets, Little Grebe, Garganey, Purple Swamphen, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Zitting Cisticola and Plain Prinia. As we walked back towards the bus Pied Cuckoo and Black-hooded Oriole were in mature trees. Travelled inland to Kitulgala and the Plantation Inn overlooking the River Kelani. Late lunch taken with the added bonus of Tickell's Blue Flycatcher singing from a stand of bamboo. I decided to walk along a road from Kitulgala village passing through woodland and rice paddies. This was productive for Ceylon Grey Hornbill, Emerald Dove, Green Imperial and Pompadour Green Pigeons, Black-rumped Flamebacks, Hill Myna's and Asian Brown Flycatcher. As dusk started to fall a fruiting tree attracted Yellow-fronted Barbet and White-throated Flowerpeckers both endemic birds. Returned to base for an enjoyable evening meal. January
12th: Kitulgala - Ratnapura After breakfast we headed to the village and a dugout canoe crossing of the Kelani River. Above the river there were parties of Indian Swiftlets.The first village produced Orange-billed Babblers. A paddy field and its adjacent vegetation had calling Green-billed Coucal and Ceylon Junglefowl. As we entered the forest Yellow-browed Bulbul appeared and further along the track singing Spot-winged Thrush and feeding Asian Brown Flycatcher. Passed through the next village with groups of Black Bulbuls, Scarlet Minivet and Ceylon Hanging Parrots. On a stream wintering Grey Wagtails. Beyond another village a mixed feeding flock comprising of Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and Black-rumped Flamebacks. Walked back to the river stopping for Ceylon Magpie, Black-naped Monarch and in the paddy area Black-crested Bulbuls and a single Lesser Yellownape. Returned to base for lunch and afterwards the journey to Ratnapurna a town noted for its gemstones. Checked in at the hotel and made a brief walk around the gardens. White-browed Fantail, Blue-winged Leafbird and Ashy Woodswallow being the highlights. Tomorrow we visit Sinharaja an excellent site for endemic birds. January 13th: Ratnapura - Sinharaja Weather: Hot and humid, 28c
January 14th: Ratnapura - Sinharaja - Embilipitiya Weather: Warm with occasional cloudy periods, 26c. On the road at 0600 for a return visit to Sinharaja passing by rice paddies and stands of palms. Near the entrance road we found a Changeable Hawk Eagle perched on a dead stump. Met up with Ranjit our guide from yesterday and visited a section of gardens bordering a river with stands of bamboo. Birding was slow but we eventually located a pair of Green-billed Coucals perched in a tree adorned with creepers. Travelled by jeeps up a truly awful track to Martins Bungalow. John managed to see a Besra with a snake by a stand of pines. Walked along the main track observing the female Ceylon Frogmouth sitting on her nest and good views of Red-faced Malkohas. A splendid male Ceylon Junglefowl walking across the track into cover. Feeding flock located including White-faced Starlings, Black-hooded Orioles and Black-naped Monarchs. Stopped to watch the Ceylon Magpies near their nest before returning to the bus and park entrance. En route several thermaling Crested Serpent Eagles and Black Eagles. The road to Embilipitiya seem to take an age crossing valleys and tea plantations. A stop overlooking fruiting trees in a tea field was extremely productive. We had exceptional views of Yellow-fronted and Ceylon Small Barbets, Ceylon Myna, Golden-fronted Leafbirds, Black Bulbuls and White-throated Flowerpeckers. We reached Embilipitiya just after 2000 hours for a two night stay and a change of habitats. January
15th: Embilipitiya - Kelametiya - Uda Walawe A later start today which was appreciated by everyone. After breakfast we headed towards the coast and Kelametiya bird sanctuary. Just outside the hotel gardens an Indian Roller perched on a telegraph pole. Our first stop opposite a well-vegetated tank provided us with Asian Openbill, Black-headed Ibis, Oriental Darter, Common Redshank, Red-wattled Lapwing and Whiskered and White-winged Terns hawking for insects. In the marsh itself Purple Swamphen and Plain Prinia. Further down the road we stopped again to observe Crested Serpent Eagle and literally hundreds of egrets feeding in rice paddies. Pintail Snipe flushed from a ditch. Joined the coast road and stopped opposite a small pool holding Lesser Whistling Duck. Travelled to Kelametiya where the first patch of grassland had Richard's and Paddyfield Pipits and Green Bee-eaters sallying for insects from bushes. At the bridge a flooded area of mangroves held Common Sandpiper, Common Greenshank and Greater Thick-knee. Walked across the field where a pair of Yellow-wattled Lapwings stood motionless on the grass. Returned to base for lunch. At 1415 we departed for Uda Walawe nature reserve for our first jeep safari. Headed into the park stopping at a fruiting fig tree holding Coppersmith Barbet, Large-billed Leaf Warbler, Great Tit and a Rosy Starling. Grasses and shrubs attracted Black-headed Munia and Ashy Prinias. Further along the track we observed Indian Elephants walking slowly through high grasses. A seasonal lagoon attracted Little Ringed Plover and Marsh Sandpiper. Nearby dead trees held Black-shouldered Kites, Eurasian Kestrel and Crested Treeswift. On sandy tracks Eurasian Hoopoe and Barred Button-quails. Time was pressing when we reached another area of pools and teak trees. The former having Painted Storks and the latter Orange-breasted Green Pigeons and a Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike. Fruiting trees provided us with excellent views of Malabar Pied Hornbills. Returned to the park entrance with flight views of Indian Cormorants and Black-tailed Godwits going to roost. Tomorrow we head south and north to the hill station town of Nuwera Elija. January 16th: Embilipitiya - Tissa Tanks - Surrey Estate - Nuwara Eliya Weather: Hot and sunny, cooler at higher elevations, 17c/27c A later start today as we headed towards the coast road and inland towards Tissa. We passed through Hambantota recording a fishing Lesser Crested Tern flying over a saltpan. Tissa Tank (twin-section) was our first birding area a diverse habitat of reeds, islands and open water. Gull-billed, Whiskered, White-winged and Little Terns over the tank itself. A grassy peninsula attracted shorebirds notably Pacific Golden Plovers, Little and Temminck's Stints, Curlew, Common and Marsh Sandpipers, Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers and Lesser Sandplovers. On islands with bushes we observed Indian Silverbill whilst overhead two Marsh Harriers flew by. On the tank edges good numbers of egrets, herons and storks. Boarded the bus for the short journey to Tissa Main Tank a waterlily covered lake with a surround of mixed woodland and rice paddies. Walked down a path through the palms recording Shikra and near the tank a male White-naped Woodpecker hammering a rotten fencepost, he eventually extracted a huge grub and flew into nearby palms. On reaching the tank we located Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Common Moorhen, Purple Gallinule and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas. Near a huge tree we witnessed a fascinating event of a Purple Heron being robbed of a fish by a Brahminy Kite. Rejoined the bus and took the route to Ella. Lunch taken on a balcony overlooking superb scenery. In nearby trees Sri Lanka White-eye, Coppersmith Barbet and Sri Lanka White-eyes. High in the mountain a pair of Mountain Hawk Eagles hunting for food. On arrival at Surrey Estate we located a pair of Brown Wood-owls roosting in a low tree. January 17th: Nuwara Eliya - Horton Plains - Victoria Park Weather: Cool at higher altitudes, warmer at Nuwara Eliya, 8c/17c. We set off for Horton Plains at 0500 an area of high grasslands interspersed with tracts of forest. Our first stop near a pool produced Eurasian Blackbird, Yellow-eared Bulbul and Bright-green Warblers. Packed breakfast consumed before walking up the road through an interesting area of stunted forest. Indian Scimitar Babblers came into view dueting on a horizontal branch. Sri Lanka Woodpigeon observed at close range feeding on berries. In the undergrowth we had glimpses of the rare Sri Lankan Bush Warbler. After the forest ended we entered a large tract of grassland holding Pied Bushchat, Oriental Skylark, Zitting Cisticola and two Common Buzzards. On the forest edge Oriental Honey Buzzard perched in a dead tree. We eventually located Dull-blue Flycatchers near the park rangers bungalow. Returned to base walking through a village recording Brown Shrike, Ashy Prinia, White-breasted Waterhen and a hunting Black-shouldered Kite. After lunch we made the short trip to Victoria Park where we added Indian Pitta, Forest Wagtail and an immature male Kashmir Flycatcher. A rather frustrating day had come to an end. January 18th: Nuwara Eliya - Kandy Botanical Gardens Weather: Overcast with heavy rain showers, 8c/19c. Revisited Victoria Park without much success although we had excellent views of Indian Pitta perched in a bush. Started the long decent to Kandy the former capital of Sri Lanka with a stop at a tea factory for Hill Swallow. Checked in at our hotel overlooking a slow-moving river. In the afternoon we visited the botanical gardens walking along paths and lawns. Large trees with fruit attracted the commoner birds and Blue-winged Leafbirds. Several of us caught up with Alexandrine Parakeets perched in the crowns of trees. In a rubbish area Indian Pitta showed before flying up into a branch. Heavy rain curtailed birding shortly afterwards. Boarded the bus visiting a gemstone dealer on the outskirts of town. The finale for some was a visit to The Temple of The Tooth in central Kandy. Back to base for our last night in the countries wet zone. January 19th: Kandy - Anuradhapura. Weather: Hot and sunny with occasional showers, 20c/31c. Our first destination was Kandy Botanical Gardens and a two hour walk around the grounds. Similar birds to yesterday but in better weather conditions. We eventually located an immature male Indian Blue Robin near a rubbish area along with Tickell's Blue Flycatcher. Time was pressing as we left Kandy for the ancient capital of sri Lanka, Anuradhapura. Stopped en route to buy spices and body oils. Late lunch followed by a walk to the tank area adjacent to the hotel. Plenty of herons, egrets and terns and a Pied Cuckoo in a stunted tree. Remainder of the afternoon visiting two tanks the first providing us with views of Lesser Whistling Duck, Garganey, Purple Swamphen and Pheasant-tailed Jacana. Dan located a Black Drongo sitting on a burnt trees stump. Returned to base for an early dinner and night. January 20th: Anuradhapura - Vilpathu National Park Weather: Overcast and humid with frequent rain showers, 26c. An early start to visit Vilpathu National Park which only reopened in 2003 after being closed for two decades. Negotiated with the head ranger to remove the jeep tops as they obstruct and restrict viewing for birding. The first section was thick forest with Sri Lanka Junglefowl and Brown Shrike being fairly numerous. Once in the open we located Malabar Pied Hornbill and Crested Treeswift. Several pools were visited during our visit producing Little and Indian Cormorants, Black-headed Ibis, Whiskered Tern, Lesser Whistling Duck, Painted Stork, Asian Openbill and the shoreline Common Snipe, Marsh, Common, Green, Wood and Curlew Sandpipers, Greater and Lesser Sandplovers and Oriental Skylark. Grasslands held Red-wattled and Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Pacific Golden Plovers and in areas with bushes Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters. Stopped for lunch near a derelict building situated by a lily-covered tank. Usual species on the tank and overhead Lesser Adjutant, and in adjacent trees White-bellied and Grey-headed Fish Eagles and Black Drongo. In the afternoon we visited several more wetlands with one in particular holding Clamorous Reed Warbler and a Pale Martin flying amongst Barn Swallows. Large trees attracted Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters. Tried to get to a coastal lagoon but track conditions made it impossible even with 4x4. Back to the main entrance gate stopping along the way for White-rumped Sharma and for a few of us Plaintive Cuckoo. Earlier in the day brief glimpses of Blue-faced Malkohas flying into deep cover. At the main entrance we loaded up into our bus and headed to Habarana for a three-night stay. January 21st: Habarana - Sigiriya - Kawdulla. Weather: Overcast with heavy rain showers, 24c. Later start today leaving at 0900 to visit the old road to Sigiriya. At the start of the road we visited a large tank holding the commoner waterbirds. Heavy rain forced us to shelter in a nearby building. Walked back to the bus and travelled towards the rock fortress of Sigiriya. Birding was tough due to weather conditions although we managed to observe Grey-breasted and Jungle Prinias singing and preening in a low bush. White-rumped Sharmas called from the undergrowth but remained elusive. Oriental Honey Buzzard flew overhead giving excellent views. Returned to base for lunch followed by a jeep safari to Kawdulla National Park a huge wetland bordered by grassland and forest. We followed a track bordering a canal where we found a Brown Fish-owl perched in the open. At Kawdulla we travelled along a raised track giving views over the forest and river. Good views of the common forest birds plus perched Grey-headed Fish-eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle and Changeable Hawk Eagles. The second jeep located Common Hawk-cuckoo. Further along the track a male Small Minivet perched high in a dead tree. A highlight was a pair of Woolly-necked Storks nesting in a tree with well-grown young. Turned road after c10km when heavy rain set in for the day making birding virtually impossible. Returned to base in persistent heavy rain. January
22nd: Sigiriya - Habarana. At 0800 we set off down the old road to Sigiriya in better weather conditions than yesterday. Familiar birds seen from the bus in trees and on the road itself. Stopped near a clearing where we located Thick-billed Flowerpecker and a family party of Common Woodshrikes. Headed towards the hill fortress of Sigiriya along poor roads made worse by heavy rain. We located a Plaintive Cuckoo perched on telephone wires and further along I enticed a White-rumped Sharma into view. Luck was with us again when an Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher was located preening on a low branch. It stayed for some minutes allowing telescope views. Returned to base via a tank holding the common waterbirds and in vegetation White-browed Bulbuls. After lunch we embark on a leisurely stroll around the hotel grounds and adjacent tank. We joined the hotel 'bird trail' taking us into the farm section where we located White-browed Bulbul, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Brown-headed Barbet and overhead Barn and Sri Lanka Swallows. On the tank itself Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Common and Stork-billed Kingfishers, Oriental Darter and Pheasant-tailed Jacana. An isolated bush held Black-crowned Night Heron in breeding plumage. The rain started to fall again to end our birding tour of Sri Lanka. January 23rd: Habarana - Colombo - Maldives Islands - Heathrow An
early start in order to catch our Air Lanka flight back to London
via Male on the Maldives Islands. The journey went smoothly to
Colombo as we passed through various towns and villages. As dawn
broke we entered the northern suburbs of Negombo an area famed
for its beautiful beaches. Passed through various security points
around the airport and arrived near the departure point. We said
our goodbyes to Sumit, Douglas, Alex and Yatta all of who gave
us excellent service throughout our stay. Checked in with Air
Lanka and made the short journey down to the Maldives a rather
flat and featureless archipelago surrounded by crystal-clear blue
seas. The journey back to Europe was uneventful apart from a few
areas of turbulence and a strong headwind making progress rather
slow. Landed at Heathrow were we said our goodbyes the end to
an excellent tour despite changes to the original itinerary. For details of the full species list or to request further information about the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com. |
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