| Leading
Tours since 1987

JAPAN
2007
...with
Mark Finn |
Our
annual winter tour to Japan was a tremendous success with a few
changes being made in the itinerary from 2006. Mild weather throughout
Japan particularly on Hokkaido had an effect on some species due
to the lack of sea-ice. This also had an effect on Baikal Teal
which was present in very low numbers this year and a complete
absence of waxwings. In contrast we recorded some exceptional
species notably Laysan and Short-tailed Albatrosses, White-billed
Divers, Lesser White-fronted Geese, Black-faced Spoonbills, higher
than average numbers of Falcated Ducks, Green Pheasant, Steller’s
and White-tailed Eagles (highest numbers for some years), five
species of cranes, Saunders’ Gull, Long-billed Murrelet,
Blakiston’s Eagle Owl, Japanese Accentor and Asian Rosy
Finch.
I
am again indebted to David for his Japanese language skills and
navigation which helped the tour to run so smoothly.
I am sure the following report will bring back many happy memories
of Japan.
February
10th/11th: Heathrow/Manchester - Frankfurt - Tokyo - Karuizawa
Weather: Cool and sunny in Japan with light north winds -2c/5c
We
left our respective airports in the UK for the flight to Frankfurt.
On arrival in Frankfurt we transferred for the long flight over
Russia, China and Korea to Japan. After passing customs and passport
control we were met by Akira my ground agent in Tokyo. We boarded
a bus bound for Tokyo Station. Lunch taken at Tokyo Station before
boarding the bullet train to Karuizawa nestling in the shadow
of the Japanese Alps. Picked up a minivan and checked in at the
Sala Hotel set in mature woodlands. From the hotel we walked through
the woods recording Japanese, Varied and Willow Tits, and in fields
Siberian Meadow and Rustic Buntings, Tree Sparrows and a single
Chestnut-eared Bulbul. In the river large boulders attracted Japanese
and Black-backed Wagtails. The weather turned colder as we headed
back to base.
February 12th: Karuizawa
Weather: Sunny with light westerly winds, -4c/5c
Outside
in the hotel gardens we recorded Chestnut-eared Bulbul, Hawfinch
and Eurasian Jays. After breakfast we made the short journey to
Karuizawa nature centre and started to walk along the trail system.
En route we stopped for Azure-winged Magpies and White-cheeked
Starlings. By the nature centre the river had Brown Dipper, and
overhead Black-eared Kites. The second trail was steep in places
with the higher 'flat' area attracting Varied, Japanese, Coal
and Long-tailed Tits and brief views of a male Japanese Sparrowhawk
flying over the forest. Returned to the nature centre with a walk
passing by houses with mature gardens and an adjacent park, with
ponds and a river. The former held Mute Swan, Mallard, Chinese
Spot-billed Duck and Eurasian Wigeon. Next stop was a hotel with
several feeders bordering a small pond. Birding was excellent
here with close views of Japanese Accentor, Japanese Grosbeak,
Pale Thrush, Oriental Greenfinch, Oriental Turtle Dove and Great-spotted
and Pygmy Woodpeckers. Travelled onto Karuizawa railway station
and walked into the grounds of a large hotel complex. Rustic Buntings
were particularly common and another pool gave us our first Grey
Heron and Eurasian Teals of the tour. In the afternoon we explored
areas along roads 18 and 157. No sign of any pheasants but we
did add White-backed Woodpecker and a fine male Daurian Redstart.
Tomorrow we return to Tokyo and fly westwards to Kagoshima in
Kyushu province.
February 13th: Karuizawa - Tokyo - Kagoshima - Satsuma
- Izumi
Weather: Sunny with cloudy conditions in Kyushu, north west winds
-2c/15c
Before
breakfast we checked the woodland around the hotel with similar
birds to yesterday morning. Japanese Green Woodpecker was seen
before travelling onto Karuizawa Station and the bullet train
back to Tokyo. On arrival in Tokyo we headed to Haneda Airport
for a flight to Kagoshima in Kyushu. Tokyo Docks held Great Cormorant,
Vega Gull, Eurasian Wigeon, Common Pochard, Tufted Duck and Common
Coot. The flight to Kagoshima left and arrived on time. Picked
up the rental van and started to head towards Izumi via Satsuma.
In Satsuma we scoured the river area for birds. On rocks and muddy
margins Black-backed, Japanese and Grey Wagtails, Black-faced
Bunting, American Pipit, Common Snipe and Green Sandpipers. Shallow
pools attracted Little and Great Egrets, whilst the deeper water
channels had Eurasian Teal, Mallard and Eurasian Wigeon. Further
upstream a first winter Blue Rock Thrush perched on rocks. Dusk
was starting to fall as we left Satsuma for Izumi our base for
the next three nights.
February 14th: Izumi - Arasaki - Takae
Weather: Heavy rain followed by showers and overcast conditions,
south east winds 8c/14c
The
morning started with torrential rain showers from the south east
making driving difficult and birding almost impossible. Our first
birding stop at Arasaki Crane Reserve was a magical moment for
us all. Literally thousands of cranes present including c11000
Hooded, c400 White-naped and 2 Common Cranes. On the rice fields
high numbers of Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Pintail plus Great and
Little Egrets, Japanese Skylark and American Pipit. I then located
a sleeping Black-faced Spoonbill and several Northern Lapwings
on the edge of a pool. Loaded up and travelled a short distance
for Common Shelduck and Eurasian Teal. Next on the agenda was
a harbour and adjacent forest mixed with bamboo. The trees here
held nesting Grey Herons and Little Egrets whilst other species
included Pygmy Woodpecker, Daurian Redstart, Varied and Japanese
Tits, Pale Thrush, Japanese White-eye, Oriental Turtle Dove and
singing Japanese Bush Warbler. On the opposite side of the harbour
an immature Merlin was located by Scott. Rocky piers attracted
Japanese Cormorants and overhead fishing Ospreys. We then proceeded
along the sea-wall road giving views onto dormant rice paddies
below. Large flocks of Rooks and wintering Daurian Jackdaws. Checked
the main canal where many ducks were present. Muddy fringes lured
Common, Green and Curlew Sandpipers and Dunlin. Upstream a section
of pebble/mud beach attracted Kentish and Long-billed Plovers.
Lunch taken by a muddy section of river where we added Gadwall,
Northern Shoveler and White-necked Stilt. After lunch we walked
around an area of rough grassland and scrub with Siberian Meadow,
Rustic and Black-faced Buntings for company. Walked down the road
scanning rice and grass fields for birds, luck was with us as
Jean located a Grey-headed Lapwing feeding alongside Northern
Lapwings. Brief visit of the eastern arm of the crane reserve
added two wintering Sandhill Cranes. Time was pressing as we followed
route three to Takae in order to visit areas of marsh, fields
and adjacent forest. Takae had flocks of Rustic and Siberian Meadow
Buntings and Bull-headed Shrike. Best of all was a hunting male
Hen Harrier and a Eurasian Kestrel hunting for rodents from a
telegraph pole. Back to base after a great days birding around
Izumi.
February 15th: Izumi - Saga - Ariake-se area
Weather: Sunny with light north west winds, 12c
An
early start today in order to visit Ariake-se a vast inland sea
in Western Kyushu. Villages adjacent to Ariake-se had Common Magpie
an extremely localised bird in Japan. The tide was starting to
fall when we reached the sea wall complex. On the mud huge numbers
of birds including Northern Pintail, Eurasian Wigeon, Black-headed,
Saunders, Vega and Kamchatka Gulls, Dunlin and Grey Plover. More
unusual species for Japan included Eurasian and Black-faced Spoonbills,
Falcated Duck, Avocet, Eurasian Curlew and Common Greenshank.
We started to walk along the sea wall and surrounding tracks the
latter being bordered by fields and reed beds. Siberian Meadow,
Black-faced and (Eastern) Reed Buntings in the ditches. Raptors
were also around with a male Hen Harrier, Merlin and Peregrine
Falcon. We flushed a juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron from the
reeds before lunch. Afterwards we visited the area around Saga
Airport. Patches of woodland held Japanese Grosbeak, Bull-headed
Shrike and Oriental Greenfinches. Returned towards the sea wall
where the tide was starting to come in. Usual birds present on
the shore. Back to base after a long day in Western Kyushu.
February 16th: Izumi - Mi-ike - Kagoshima - Tokyo - Komatsu
Weather: Overcast with light west winds, 6c.
Checked
out of Izumi and headed towards the volcanic lake of Mi-ike. En
route we stopped at a lake holding Mandarin Duck, Eurasian Wigeon
and an immature drake American Wigeon. Around the lake edge Pale
Thrush and Black-faced Buntings. Near the expressway a section
of river with pebble islands was attractive to Great and Little
Egrets, Common Sandpiper, Long-billed Plover, and overhead wintering
Barn Swallows and Asian House Martins. Mi-ike was reached with
the campground being the main birding area. Walking around the
camp produced Japanese Green Woodpecker, Olive-backed Pipits,
Japanese and Varied Tits, Eurasian Nuthatch, Bull-headed Shrike
and several Daurian Redstarts. On the lake Eurasian Wigeon, Chinese
Spot-billed Duck, Eurasian Teal, Tufted Duck and Little Grebe.
We walked around one side of the lake recording Black-faced and
Yellow-throated Buntings and a berry-laden tree with Japanese
White-eyes, Pygmy Woodpeckers and up to three Red-flanked Bluetails.
Above us in mature trees a party of Ashy Minivets, Eurasian Jays
and parties of Chestnut-eared Bulbuls. Near the path end a single
Grey Bunting and Eurasian Nuthatch. Lunch taken in the car park
with Japanese Grosbeaks singing from nearby tree-tops. After lunch
back to Kagoshima Airport and onto Tokyo and Komatsu.
February 17th: Komatsu - Katano Kamo-ike - Sea of Japan
Weather: Overcast with afternoon rain, light west winds, 6c
From
the hotel we headed towards the Sea of Japan for a short sea-watching
session. Offshore we located Red-throated Diver, Black-tailed,
Vega and Kamchatka Gulls. Katano Kamo-ike is a reserve run by
the Wild Bird Society of Japan and the next stop on our birding
agenda. Overhead a party of Bewick's Swans flew towards their
feeding grounds. From the nature centre good views are obtained
of the lake and adjacent woodlands. On the lake the commoner ducks
plus Bean Goose, Falcated Duck and Smew. We visited a beach close
to Katano recording Sanderling and Dunlin. A walk was taken through
the surrounding woodlands with little in the way of birdlife.
Our journey took us south. In a town we stopped at a lake observing
Great Crested, Black-necked, Slavonian and Little Grebes, Tufted
Duck, Common Kingfisher and Kamchatka Gulls resting on poles.
Another area of lakes had large numbers of the common ducks, Osprey
and Black-eared Kites. Roadside bushes attracted Eurasian Bullfinches
feeding on buds. We checked an area of rice fields for geese before
returning to the nature centre. At the centre up to four Baikal
Teal (low numbers this year). The warden invited us back at 1700
hours to watch roosting swans and geese. I decided to check fields
near our hotel for swans. Up to 14 Bewick's Swans with young located.
Back to the centre for dusk and the spectacle of c1500 Greater
White-fronted Geese coming into roost. Careful checking revealed
two Lesser White-fronted Geese and four Tundra Bean Geese although
light conditions were not ideal. Returned to base for our last
night in Komatsu.
February 18th: Kamatsu - Fukui
Weather: Early rain clearing, moderate north east winds, 3c/9c
Checked
out at 0700 with heavy rain showers falling. Little did we realise
by the hotel entrance two Green Pheasants were observed walking
slowly across rice fields. Picked up supplies and winded our way
southwards to another section of lakes and woodland. Checked the
lakes from yesterday morning recording several female Common Goldeneyes.
On the reed edges Japanese Tits, Siberian Meadow, Rustic, Reed
and Black-faced Buntings. Nearby trees attracted Great Spotted
Woodpecker, Eurasian Jay and a pale Common Buzzard. A lake recommended
to us by the warden was next on the agenda. Falcated Ducks and
Smew were the highlights. The quest for locating geese continued
with several rice paddies being scanned for birds. Luck was with
us as I located a distant flock next to a factory. We eventually
found the flock and started to scan the geese for different birds.
Two female Green Pheasants running across rice paddies. The goose
flock was flushed by a car so we had to try another sector of
fields. On this occasion a quiet approach was required. Careful
scanning revealed a splendid Lesser White-fronted Goose among
the numerous and noisy Greater Whitefronts. We returned to Kamatsu
Station dropping off the clients and then to the airport returning
the van. At 1440 the train to Nagoya arrived at Kamatsu. Arrived
on time in Nagano and transferred to the ferry terminus and next
leg of our journey.
February 19th: North Pacific Ocean - Sendai
Weather: Sunny with bitterly cold north east winds, 7c
On
deck at 0700 in order to observe seabirds off the Honshu coast.
Black-legged Kittiwake, Vega, Black-tailed and Slaty-backed Gulls
were present along with several Pomarine Skuas. Just before 0800
Scott picked up the first sighting of Laysan Albatross an increasingly
scarce bird off the Japan coast. Breakfast taken at 0800 and back
out again an hour later. Off Tokyo we located a single South Polar
Skua, Pacific Divers and the first flocks of Ancient Murrelets
(which increased in number and size northwards). Jean then located
an adult Short-tailed Albatross a very rare species of the North
Pacific Ocean. South of Sendai we started to find Rhinoceros Auklets
and straggly flocks of Pelagic Cormorants. In Sendai Bay up to
three White-billed Divers and hundreds of Asiatic and Black Scoters.
In the harbour Slavonian Grebe, Great Cormorants and Black-eared
Kites. Arrived at Sendai docks ahead of time so we decided to
walk towards an area of trees and rough ground. Common Buzzard,
Dusky Thrush, Black-faced Bunting, Oriental Turtle Dove and Black-backed
Wagtail added to the day list. Departed from Sendai at 2000 hours
for Tomakomai in Hokkaido.
February 20th: North Pacific Ocean - Tomakomai - Kushiro
- Akkeshi - Nemuro
Weather: Cold with snow flurries -1c/-3c
Last
morning on the ferry started with a seawatch in the Blakiston
Straits between Honshu from Hokkaido. New trip birds included
Short-tailed Shearwaters, Least Auklet and Common Guillemot. Docked
on time at Tomakomai and transferred to Chitose Airport for an
internal flight to Kushiro in Eastern Hokkaido. From Kushiro we
went east to Nemuro via the small town of Akkeshi. A section of
sea here normally freezes but on this occasion the inland bay
was free of ice. Open waters held Greater Scaup, Red-breasted
Merganser, Common Merganser, Common Goldeneye and Northern Pintail.
On the ice impressive numbers of Whooper Swans and a pair of Musk
Deer wandering towards the cover of woodland. The finale was an
impressive display and calling of Steller's Sea Eagles in mature
trees behind the town. They were joined by several White-tailed
Eagles being mobbed by Large-billed Crows. The light started to
go as we left Akkeshi and travelled onto Nemuro our base for the
next three nights. An excellent introduction to the winter birds
of Hokkaido had begun.
February 21st: Nemuro - Cape Nosappu - Furen-ko - Cape
Kiritappu
Weather: Sunny and clear with cold westerly winds, -4c/1c
We
started today by heading east towards Cape Nosappu the most north
easterly point in Japan. On the way we stopped at a village overlooking
the sea with Pacific Diver, Black Scoter, Long-tailed Duck and
Red-necked Grebes. The next harbour east is used mainly by the
fishing industry. On the sea wall White-tailed Eagles, Slaty-backed
and Glaucous Gulls. In the harbour Greater Scaup, Red-breasted
Merganser and Pelagic Cormorants. Further along the road we had
fantastic views of an adult Steller's Sea Eagle perched on a telegraph
pole. Cape Nosappu was reached overlooking the Kurile Islands.
The cliffs held Pelagic and Red-faced Cormorants, Glaucous and
Glaucous-winged Gulls and offshore Harlequin and Long-tailed Ducks,
Spectacled and Brunnich's Guillemots and Ancient Murrelets. We
returned to Nemuro and onto Furen-ko Nature Centre. Feeders attracted
Pygmy, Great-spotted and White-backed Woodpeckers, Marsh, Willow
and Japanese Tits, Eurasian Nuthatch and Eurasian Jay. After lunch
we headed to Cape Kiritappu a remote ice-bound cliff complex jutting
into the sea. A traditional feeding area in the vicinity had Brambling
and Asian Rosy-finches.
February 22nd: Nemuro - Notsuke Hando - Odaito
Weather: Sunny with cold south west winds, -8c/2c
Today
we headed north alongside the cold Sea of Okhotsk. En route we
visited a feeding station attracting Great-spotted Woodpecker,
Marsh, Willow and the 'white-headed' form of Long-tailed Tit.
From route 44 we turned off and went north towards Rausu. Lots
of eagles sitting in roadside trees so I headed down a minor road
towards a large lake. At the end of the road a small fishing community
was located. Out on the ice of Furen-ko hundreds of Steller’s
Sea and White-tailed Eagles and ever-present Black-eared Kites.
We spent sometime here admiring one of natures miracles. Returned
to the main road and headed north again towards the long peninsula
of Notsuke Hando. En route we stopped at Odaito to feed the ‘wild’
Northern Pintails. We spend time watching and looking for birds
on Notsuke Hando. Apart from eagles a small group of Asian Rosy
Finches flying down the road in front of us. Checked at the centre
for recent sightings and looked into the Sea of Okhotsk which
was totally ice free an unusual sight in February. Offshore, Black
and Asiatic Scoters, Long-tailed Ducks and Spectacled Guillemots.
After lunch we retraced our steps to Odaito and visited another
area for Whooper Swans, Glaucous-winged, Glaucous and Slaty-backed
Gulls and ducks. The wind was blowing hard from the south west
as we travelled south not good news for the owls. On arrival at
the farm we were advised that the owls would not show because
of the wind. Disappointed I tried another area in a hollow with
protection from the winds. Luck was with us as I heard the low
far-carrying sound of Blakiston’s Eagle Owl. A few minutes
later it flew over our viewing point and landed in a large tree
– excellent views. Back to Nemuro in good spirits for an
evening meal and drinks.
February 23rd: Nemuro – Cape Nosappu – Cape
Ochiisi – Kushiro
Final species total 162
Weather: Frequent rain showers and a cool breeze, south-east winds,
5c
This
morning we headed back to Cape Nosappu as the wind direction and
conditions appeared to be favourable. On arrival at the cape the
sheer numbers of scoters and ducks had built up considerably from
two days ago. Careful scanning of the water revealed Red-necked
Grebes, Ancient Murrelets, Common, Brunnich’s and Spectacled
Guillemots and best of all two Long-billed Murrelets. Next was
Cape Ochiisi near Nemuro where the cliffs were covered in ice.
Not much here apart from a few Brambings so we headed west to
Kushiro. In Kushiro we headed inland to the crane area. Up to
180 Red-crowned Cranes present dancing and displaying on a snowy
field. Time was getting on as we made our last birding stop in
Japan. An area of woodland was visited with numerous feeders.
To my surprise I located a male Lesser-spotted Woodpecker in a
birch tree, a rare species on Hokkaido. Also present were Great-spotted
and Pygmy Woodpeckers, Brambling, Japanese, Marsh, Willow and
Long-tailed Tits, Eurasian Nuthatch and Chestnut-eared Bulbuls.
Checked in at Kushiro Airport for the flight to Tokyo and then
across to Narita where we spent the night.
February 24th: Narita – Frankfurt – London/Manchester
A
long travel day back to Europe for most of us although David and
Scott stayed on for a further week in Japan. An excellent tour
of Japan had come to an end with a final tally of 162 species.
For details of
the full species list or to request further information about
the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com.
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