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This was Birdwatching Breaks first trip to Southern India, and despite considerable amounts of rain that hampered our birding slightly, it proved to be a successful one. Following the traditional, but strangely under-birded south Indian circuit, our tour sampled the full range of elevations and habitats in search of the endemics and other wonderful birds that this part of India is home to. Highlights on this trip included all three endemic laughingthrushes, Nilgiri and White-bellied Blue-robins, Ceylon Frogmouth, large numbers of Grey Junglefowl, all the Hornbills of the area, Blue-faced Malkoha, White-cheeked and Malabar Barbets, the delightful Heart-spotted Woodpecker and the magnificent White-bellied Woodpecker, Nilgiri Pipit, Nilgiri and Black-and-orange Flycatchers, White-bellied Blue-flycatcher, Loten’s and Crimson-backed Sunbirds and much more besides. Mammals of course featured and included Nilgiri Langur, Stripe-necked Mongoose, Indian Giant Squirrel and a great encounter with Dhole (Indian Wild Dog). I wish to thank our ever-reliable driver Suri, local guides in each location – in particular those at Munnar, Top Slip and Periyar. I am also very grateful to all staff from the ground agency in helping overcome some problems early in the trip. October
28th/29th : London-Chennai. Chennai – Bangalore. Birding
at Kokkare Bellur and Ranganithittu. After meeting at London Heathrow we checked onto our British Airways flight to Chennai. The flight arrived on time and we were quickly on our internal flight to Bangalore. By 7.30am we were on our way and heading west towards Mysore. Our first Indian birds were obvious; Jungle & Common Myna, Red-wattled Lapwing, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Little Cormorant, Ashy Prinia, Blue-tailed and Green Bee-eaters and Indian Roller. At Kokkare Bellur we enjoyed close studies of breeding Spot-billed Pelicans. Overhead a Shikra circled high up, while nearby fields hosted feeding Red-naped Ibis. A stop for a Brown Shrike was typical of so many stops on overseas trips in that it led to a whole host of other birds that included excellent views of Blue-faced Malkoha, Coppersmith Barbet, Pied Bushchat, Black-rumped Flameback, Green Warbler, Small Minivet, Purple-rumped Sunbird and Common Iora. Continuing our journey we reached Ranganithittu on the outskirts of Mysore. A relaxing boat trip was just what was in order and here we enjoyed stunning close views of breeding Black-headed Ibis, Black-crowned Night-heron, Oriental Darter, Asian Openbill, River Tern and the striking Great Thicknee. Hirundines included Streak-throated and Wire-tailed Swallows whilst the nearby scrub and trees hosted Indian Grey Hornbill, White-cheeked Barbet, Black-naped Oriole and Stork-billed Kingfisher. Resuming our journey we arrived at our hotel in Mysore soon after 1600hrs, ready for a rest after our long journey. October
30th : Mysore to Nagarhole. We had a leisurely start to the day, but were soon on the road. Birding stops at wetlands on the outskirts of Mysore were productive with Wood and Common Sandpipers, Little Ringed Plover, Purple Heron, Bronze-winged Jacana, Glossy Ibis and Indian Spot-billed Duck. In cultivated areas we found Malabar Lark, Jerdon’s Bushlark, Brown Shrike, Black-headed Munia, Black-shouldered Kite, Eurasian Cuckoo, Green Bee-eater, Shikra and much more! Arriving at Kabini for lunch we had a short walk around the grounds finding Asian Brown Flycatcher. Sadly I received news of a family death for one of the group, so I spent much of the afternoon arranging for her to return home. The rest of the group headed out into the forests around Nagarhole for the afternoon. October
31st : Nagarhole. The morning began grey and damp, after a night of heavy rain. Initially things were rather slow, but new birds were soon forthcoming. Malabar White-headed Starling (split from Grey-headed), Malabar Parakeet, Osprey, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Ashy Woodswallow and White-rumped Spinetail were all soon added to our list. Another diversion included getting the vehicle stuck in thick mud! On our return journey to Kabini a great spot by our excellent local guide led to us all getting excellent views of a Brown Fish Owl. Superb! Flocks of Orange (split from Scarlet) Minivets were also very welcome. After breakfast we enjoyed a walk around Kabini’s nature trail. Our local guide pointed out many stunning butterflies, whilst avian diversions included Tawny-bellied Babbler, Jerdon’s Leafbird (split from Blue-winged) and after a spot of playback, good views of a stunning Indian Pitta. Christine out did our local guide, spotting a 2nd Brown Fish Owl that took us all some time to get onto (at least yours truly wasn’t quite the last to see it....). After lunch we had another drive in the forest. Rosy Starling was new to our list and also our local guide. Alpine Swift, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Indian Robin, Plum-headed Parakeet, Green Imperial-pigeon and lots of Grey Junglefowl were all enjoyed as we toured the forest. However, the highlight of the afternoon was undoubtedly the pack of 10 Dhole (Indian Wild Dogs) that lazily rested by the side of the track at close range. Gripping stuff. Jerdon’s Nightjar and Jungle Owlet enlivened our return to the lodge at Kabini.
Our morning safari took place in beautiful sunny conditions. We spent some time in search of Red Spurfowl, which although heard eluded us. However we enjoyed good birding with good views of Crested Serpent Eagle, Crested Hawk-eagle (split from Changeable), Streak-throated Woodpecker, Scaly-breasted Munia and more Malabar White-headed Starlings. A mixed swift flock comprised Indian Swiftlet, Alpine Swift, White-rumped Spinetail, Asian Palm-swift and Crested Treeswift. Great stuff! We departed for Mudumalai after breakfast and we made a few stops en-route. Tawny-bellied Babblers skulked through some undergrowth whilst Woolly-necked Storks dropped into fields to feed. Pale-billed Flowerpeckers enlivened a chai stop and a couple of Indian Nuthatches (split from Chestnut-bellied) were seen in some bamboo-dominated forest. Two Stripe-necked Mongoose were also enjoyed at close range. On arrival at our hotel on the edge of Mudumalai we had a wander around the grounds and were delighted by ‘long as you like’ views of Indian Pitta, a couple of Yellow-eyed Babblers, Jungle Bush-quail and Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher. At dusk we saw Jerdon’s Nightjar. November
2nd : Mudumalai – Sighur Ghat - Ooty An early morning walk in dry thorny scrub jungle proved very good birding. A whole host of great birds included a flyover juvenile Pallid Harrier, good numbers of Bay-backed Shrikes, 2 Jacobin (Pied) Cuckoo, Jerdon’s Leafbird, Verditer Flycatcher, Grey-breasted Prinia, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker and on our return to the hotel, 3 Spotted Owlets. After a late breakfast, a walk through bamboo dominated areas produced our first Yellow-browed Bulbuls, Asian Paradise Flycatcher and White-rumped Munia, but it was generally rather quiet. After lunch we headed off in the direction of Ooty. Along the river we found many bulbuls, including our first White-browed, Common Woodshrike and Purple-rumped Sunbird. Heading up the Sighur Ghat road we stopped at some fruiting trees that hosted Asian Fairy-Bluebird, Blue-capped Rock-thrush, Nilgiri Flycatcher and a magnificent Indian Giant Squirrel. An Indian Blue Robin showed briefly, before we continued on to our comfortable hotel in Ooty. November
3rd : Cairnhill, Ooty Botanical Gardens, Coonoor. We began the day with a visit to Cairnhill Reserved Forest. This proved very quiet, almost eerily so, and we had to work hard for our birds. First up was the highly desirable Nilgiri Blue-Robin seen well singing in the middle storey. A couple of hours of further effort produced Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Large-billed Leaf Warbler, Indian Blue Robin and Nilgiri Flycatcher. Cutting our losses we visited the rather busy Botanical gardens. We found many Oriental White-eyes, more Indian Blue Robins and the stunning Black-and-orange Flycatcher. After lunch we headed down to Coonoor. Our first stop produced Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Black-lored Tit, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta and a short walk along the road resulted in a stunning pair of Nilgiri Laughingthrushes performing in full view at close range. A superb way to end an afternoon birding, which was subsequently curtailed by fog, low cloud and then torrential rain. Clearly the monsoon had a last blast here! November
4th : Ooty, Cairnhill, Coonoor We began with an exploration of a forested gully. As we entered the area we found a small feeding flock that hosted our first Tickell’s Leaf Warblers; smashing fellows! Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and the usual Oriental White-eyes were also in evidence. Further along the trail I found an Indian Blackbird (a split from our own Eurasian Blackbird), but sadly it sneaked off before the group could view it. Two Nilgiri Laughingthrushes put on a good show and sang their comedy Punch & Judy song at us! At Cairnhill we found a bit more activity than yesterday with Indian Scimitar-babblers putting on a good show, as did Black-and-orange Flycatchers that flitted about the undergrowth. We had further views of Nilgiri Blue Robin, Asian Paradise Flycatcher and the usual Phylloscopus warblers. After lunch we again visited the Coonoor area. A Rufous-bellied Eagle was the main highlight soaring over the canopy, whilst more Nilgiri Laughingthrushes, Nilgiri Flycatcher, Nilgiri Wood-pigeon, Yellow-browed Bulbul and Dusky Crag Martin all performed. A Blue-capped Rock-thrush did not linger. November
5th : Ooty to Top Slip Today was primarily a travel day as we made our way from the cool of Ooty, down onto the hot and steamy plains, before heading up into the Anamalai hills at Top Slip. Stops in the upland areas near Ooty produced Hill Swallow. Near Coimbatore a large lake hosted many Coots, but of greater interest were the Cotton Teal (Pygmy-goose) and Garganey that were present. On arrival at Top Slip we eventually cut through all the red tape and made our way towards the very basic rest house that was to be home for the next 2 nights. En-route we enjoyed Greater Flameback and the afternoon explorations produced White-bellied Treepie, Dark-fronted Babbler, Malabar Grey Hornbill and White-rumped Shama. November
6th : Top Slip Despite the basic nature of our accommodation, today was a cracking day. In the morning we visited Karian Shola. As we reached the edge of the forest the morning misty gloom began to clear and we were confronted by a host of great birds. A feeding flock included White-bellied Treepie, Orange Minivet, Malabar Woodshrike (split from Large), Black-hooded Oriole, and Indian Pygmy Woodpecker and in the low undergrowth a garrulous flock of Wynaad Laughingthrushes. Into the shola and we were enjoying close views of Large-billed Leaf-warbler, whilst in the clearing Flame-throated Bulbul (split from Black-crested) showed well. On our return walk Heart-spotted Woodpeckers performed in the treetops. After lunch we had a wonderful walk around the open forests as we meandered towards Karian Shola. Despite hot and humid conditions we found plenty of birds. Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters were crowd pleasers as ever, whilst White-rumped Shama, Lesser Yellownape, Bronzed Drongo and Asian Paradise Flycatcher also performed. Fruiting trees attracted Malabar Grey and Great Hornbills, while a party of Rufous Babblers fizzed through the dense clumps of bamboo. At dusk in the clearing at Karian Shola we saw good numbers of Brown-backed Needletails and a superb display by the Greater Racket-tailed Drongos hawking for insects. A cracking Brown Hawk-owl flew in to check us out and the grand finale was superb views of a Ceylon Frogmouth as the forest around reverberated to the sounds of their calls. Simply wonderful! November
7th : Top Slip - Munnar We began the day with a walk through the rather misty bamboo dominated forest close to our accommodation. Almost our first bird was a Brown-breasted Flycatcher. Fruiting trees harboured many White-cheeked Barbets, whilst feeding flocks included Tickell’s Flycatcher and Brown-cheeked Fulvetta. A Malabar Whistling-thrush sang its lazy song and showed well. Our journey down to Pollachi produced a stunning Crested Hawk-eagle, Oriental Honey-buzzard and Common Tailorbird. After lunch in Pollachi the long journey to Munnar took us through cultivated lowlands, past a large lake and then into the dry scrub jungle of Chinnar before reaching the tea plantations that surround Munnar. The winding road was tiring, but the scenery superb. The birds were also pretty good! The lake produced Grey-headed Fish-eagle and Painted Stork, with the riverside scrub home to Puff-throated Babbler, White-browed Bulbul and White-browed Fantail. Our arrival in Munnar was just after dark. November
8th : Eravikulam National Park (Rajamalai), Cardamom Estate The morning dawned sunny and clear and we spent a thoroughly enjoyable time in the grasslands and sholas of Rajamalai. A spectacular area we great views across the valleys and distant peaks. We had a specific set of birds to find here and first up was the last of the endemic laughingthrushes we needed for the trip – the excellent Grey-breasted Laughingthrush. We got good views of this bird, before turning our attention to the search for White-bellied Blue-robin. This along with Nilgiri Blue-robin has traditionally been lumped together as White-bellied Shortwing, but Rasmussen & Anderton have revised the taxonomic treatment of these forms. Anyway, we enjoyed absolutely mind-blowing views of this stunning little creature as it sang at close range, filling the scope’s field of view. Awesome! Walking up the road we eventually found and obtained more close views of Nilgiri Pipit, despite the hoards of Indian tourists here to see the hills in bloom. After lunch the rain disrupted our activities, but a walk into a nearby shola was memorable for close and prolonged views of the often very elusive Nilgiri Wood-pigeon perched in an open leafless tree. Other birds seen included Malabar Whistling-thrush and Nilgiri Flycatcher.
After leaving Munnar we headed off towards Periyar with a diversion to Bodi Ghat in search of Yellow-throated Bulbul. Here landslides and certain road improvements meant we had to go much further down the Ghat than on my previous visits in order to find our target species, but ultimately we were successful in our quest and we got good views of this rather smart bulbul in some roadside bushes. The supporting cast included good views of Tawny-bellied Babblers, Jungle Prinia and Dusky Crag Martin. Our journey to Periyar was rough and winding and we were glad to arrive in the early afternoon. Soon settled into our hotel rooms, we discovered that two of the rooms gave eye-level views into a fruiting tree. Christine soon found Heart-spotted Woodpecker, and we all enjoyed great looks at this super little chap. White-cheeked Barbets and Black-hooded Oriole were also in evidence. Heavy rain somewhat spoiled our boat trip on the lake and the very high water levels left few areas for animals to come out in the open. The main highlights were Ashy Woodswallow, Osprey and Pied Kingfisher. November
10th : Periyar The last full day of the trip was another cracking day. We went trekking in the forest and encountered some memorable birds. First up was a Mountain Imperial Pigeon sitting in the top of a leafless tree. Just into the forest, the telltale knocking of a woodpecker revealed the presence of a pair of the magnificent White-bellied Woodpeckers. A Great Hornbill snoozed in the early morning sunlight. A Rusty-tailed Flycatcher flitted about the treetops, but the views were less than gripping! In the undergrowth we had good views of White-bellied Blue-flycatcher zipping about and further along the trail a Forest Wagtail sneaked off into the forest. In a clearing we came across a Black Baza perched in a treetop. A feeding flock included Black-naped Monarch, Yellow-browed Bulbul, Asian Paradise-flycatcher and a heard but unseen Little Spiderhunter. After lunch we began with a fly past of 3 Black Bazas. A Mountain Hawk-eagle was deep in the forest and we at last secured good views of the gorgeous Malabar Barbet (split from Crimson-fronted). Western Crowned Warbler flitted through the middle-storey and Malabar Trogon, Jungle Owlet and Puff-throated Babbler also put on a show for us. November
11th /12th : Periyar – Madurai – Chennai - London Our final morning in Periyar was spent with another walk in the forest. In rather dull conditions we found some more good birds. 2 Grey-fronted Green-pigeons (split from Pompadour) were enjoyed with good scope views. A Brown-breasted Flycatcher flitted about in the treetops and a feeding flock included Indian Scimitar-babbler and Flame-throated Bulbul. A walk along the forest trails was rather muddy and although we heard Red Spurfowl they again eluded us. Emerald Doves showed briefly, but a Malabar Trogon popped up at very close range. After a leisurely lunch and packing our bags we left Periyar and headed for Madurai. The journey once again took us through an agricultural landscape, but there was clearly much flooding due to the unusually heavy rains (40% up on the expected totals). In the drier scrubby habitats we paused for stops where we found Purple Sunbird and Common Babbler, whilst further along a Peregrine was stooping over a high cliff. A flooded area outside Madurai hosted Pintail, plenty of egrets and Little Cormorant. As dusk fell we saw small numbers of Indian Flying Foxes on the edge of the city. Our flight from Madurai to Chennai was delayed by an hour, but we were still able to get washed and changed in Chennai before joining the queues to leave India on our BA flight back to London, which arrived as scheduled on the morning of November 12th. For details of the full species list or to request further information about the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com. |
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