Highlands Trip Report

Scotland (Highlands) 2010

...with Mark Finn

May 15th - 21st

Mid May is probably one of the best weeks in spring for summer visitors and lingering winter birds and the possibility of rare vagrants to the Scottish Highlands. Our tour was once again one of the best in Scotland for the number of species seen (135) and the exceptional views of scarce breeding birds. Highlights were many including a party of Eurasian Dotterel on the top of Cairngorm, close views of Rock Ptarmigan in their natural habitat and Black Grouse on a traditional lek in Wester Ross. Along the coast we visited the seabird cliffs of Handa along with Great and Arctic Skuas and further north in Durness where we found a pair of Garganey and two lingering Black-tailed Godwits of the islandica race. In the woodlands and forests we observed Crested Tit, Common and Scottish Crossbills, Wood Warblers and all too brief views of Capercaillie.

May 15th: Black Isle, Cawdor, Nairn, Alturlie, Strathconon, Strathpeffer.

Weather: Sunny with a southwest wind 15 C.

Saturday is always a mixed day for birding as I had to visit the airport to pick up guests for the week. Thankfully there are many birding sites within a short distance which makes things much easier. The first stop was at Nairn a typical Scottish seaside town with miles of sand beaches. The tide was high with Common Eiders out in the Moray Firth. On the beach a few birds were noted including Eurasian Oystercatcher. In the gardens and parks non-stop singing of Willow Warblers, along with the local race of Dunnock. Lunch taken in the grounds of Cawdor Castle. Alturlie was next on the agenda a rather muddy and rocky beach near Inverness. Ringed Plover and Dunlin were observed feeding along the shore whilst offshore an Osprey headed towards the Black Isle. Early afternoon saw the group completed apart from Jon who was due to arrive on Monday. I headed across the Kessock Bridge into Ross-shire and the sheltered glen of Strathconon. In a short time we were watching a singing Wood Warbler in a silver birch tree. Also present Long-tailed Tit, Common Redpoll and Eurasian Siskins. Our last stop at Strathpeffer allowed us close views of Slavonian Grebes a scarce breeding bird of Scotland. To complete our first day a Red Kite overhead plus feeding Barn Swallow, House and Sand Martins and Common Swift.

May 16th: Black Isle, Achnahalt, Achnasheen, Kinlochewe, Gairloch, Poolewe, Aultbea, Melon Udrigle, Gruinard Bay.

Weather: Sunny with a cool southwest wind 14 C.

Before breakfast John walked down the entrance track towards the old kirk recording Great Spotted Woodpecker, Northern Wheatear, Greater Whitethroat, Northern Wheatear, Skylark and Yellowhammer. In addition to this the feeders attracted Eurasian Siskins, European Greenfinch, European Goldfinch and Tree Sparrow. After breakfast we headed in a westerly direction into the vast, deserted area of Wester Ross. The first stop was Achnahalt where the open waters of the loch had Mute and Whooper Swans, Eurasian Teal, Eurasian Wigeon, Greenshank, Osprey, Sand Martins and a pair of feeding Black-throated Divers. At Achnasheen a short diversion to inspect another lochan and to see if the singing Redwings were around, unfortunately the latter species was absent. The lochan did have a surprise in an immature Common Scoter whilst Mistle Thrush and Common Redpolls were in adjacent birches. I passed through Kinlochewe and stopped at the village of Gairloch and the head of Loch Gairloch. This was a very birdy place with great views of Great Northern and Red-throated Divers, Common Guillemot, Razorbill and Atlantic Puffins the latter usually being well out to sea. On and around the beach area Red-breasted Mergansers, Common and Arctic Terns and Common Eider. Poolewe was next where the bridge produced a pair of White-throated Dippers carrying food upstream. Aultbea had little of interest so I headed down to Melon Udrigle where to my dismay we could not park, this turned to our advantage as on the return we watched a Grasshopper Warbler totally in the open singing from a fence post – amazing views. Shortly afterwards a Common Stonechat on gorse bushes a species which has suffered due to the harsh winter. At Gruinard Bay the eagles decided not to show although we added Black Guillemot and Twite before heading back home. After dinner we were entertained by a Pine Martin in our garden which gave us long and prolonged views even standing on its back legs to look for any danger nearby.

May 17th: Corrimony, Bonar Bridge, Loch Fleet, Embo, Udale Bay, Cromarty Firth.

Weather: Sunny with cool northwest winds 2 C/15 C.

A 4am departure in order to meet Simon the warden at Corrimony. Despite being an early start it is the best and optimum time to see Black Grouse on their lek before they disperse for the summer months. On arrival Simon was waiting for us in the car park and we proceeded to the reserve. En route we spooked a Red Grouse. Arrived at the first lekking ground with nine Black Grouse calling and displaying to themselves, further down the track we observed another twenty birds and at the turn round several feeding in trees. Luck was with us here as a party of Common Crossbills were feeding on pine cones to be joined by a family group of Scottish Crossbills. Good comparisons could be made with these two ‘tricky’ species. Thankfully calls and bill shape and width helped greatly with ID. Returned to Dingwall for breakfast and afterwards the country road to Bonar Bridge despite a diversion due to road works. The river at Bonar Bridge held Whooper Swan, Common Merganser, Common Gull and an assortment of the commoner passerines around the parking area. Beyond Bonar Bridge the human population drops and vast areas of moors and lochs take over. A quick check for Icterine Warblers revealed nothing so I carried on to another spot. The bushes and water side vegetation here attracted Sedge Warbler and the rapidly declining Whinchat both being in song. Before arriving at Loch Fleet we stopped to look at an Osprey nest and inland nesting Northern Fulmars. Lunch taken at The Mound where we could look into a section of Loch Fleet where water levels are controlled. Pink-footed and Greylag Geese, Common Sandpiper, Greenshank and a wide range of gulls were observed. Embo was next and the pier jutting out into the North Sea. The rocks here attracted migrant Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling and Dunlin plus excellent views of a male Common Otter. To my surprise a group of Velvet Scoters dropped in to give good views. Returned early to the Black Isle and Udale Bay where the hide area added Canada Goose and a singing Grasshopper Warbler.

May 18th: Black Isle, Ullapool, Kylesku, Scourie, Handa, Durness, Balnakiel Bay and Farm.

Weather: Sunny with southwest winds 18 C.

Today we set off towards Durness in the far northwest of Scotland. Our first birding stop was at Ullapool where gulls, auks and a single Great Skua were observed. Short stops followed at Kylesku and Scourie with the latter having up to four Red-throated Divers and singing Sedge Warblers. At 1300 we set off by ferry to the offshore island of Handa where Phil the warden was waiting to meet us. Caught up with recent bird news before setting off to the Great Cliff a truly spectacular wildlife haven. A slow walk enabled us to observe Great and Arctic Skuas, Common Snipe, Northern Wheatear and Meadow Pipit. At the first cliff we watched Northern Fulmars, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Common Guillemot, Razorbill, Atlantic Puffin and Common Raven. A short distance away another cliff offering close views, we spent some-time here watching birds coming to and from the cliff face and avoiding the predatory skuas. Returned to the mainland with Black Guillemots and European Shags for company. I then drove up to Durness passing through a spectacular landscape of moors, mountains and lochs until reaching Balnakiel Bay. The bay is sheltered and protected from the elements. In the bay Great Northern Divers and Red-breasted Mergansers and on the beach the first Sandwich Tern, Dunlin, White Wagtails and displaying Rock Pipits. Checked in at the guest house for an evening meal of fish and chips. Back out at 2100 hours to visit Balnakiel Farm. This remarkable place retains a marshy type habitat for much of the summer and is literally the last field in Britain. Surprises always happen here and on this occasion it was a pair of Garganey feeding happily amongst the flooded fields. Also present were Common Moorhen, Eurasian Teal, Eurasian Wigeon and at least two calling Corncrakes recently arrived from Africa.

May 19th: Kyle of Durness, Balnakiel Bay, Loch Eriboll, Hope Valley, Dunnet Bay, St John’s Loch, Forsinard.

Weather: Sunny with southwest winds 19 C.

Before breakfast a quick check at the Kyle of Durness and Balnakiel Bay revealed a mass overnight clearout of birds. At 0900 hours we were on our way to Loch Eriboll where careful checking revealed a flock of Common Eiders and little else apart from gulls. I turned into the Hope Valley and stopped near Ben Hope and an area of cliffs dotted with trees. Our main target species was found by Veronique, a pair of Golden Eagles drifted over the cliff allowing us long views of this icon of Scotland. Returned to the coast road and headed towards Thurso the main town in Caithness. Picked up supplies for lunch and stopped at Dunnet Bay. The bay had Red-throated Divers and Arctic Terns so I decided to take lunch on the east side. This was a good move as a migrant Eurasian Sparrowhawk was noted circling over the cliffs and northwards. In the small wood Northern Wren, European Robin and Greater Whitethroat. St John’s Loch is always a delightful spot and today was no exception. The owners have done considerable management work over the winter months to make it a much better place for birds and wildlife. From the hide close views of Little Grebe, Common and Arctic Terns, Northern Shoveler, Tufted Duck, Eurasian Wigeon and Common Redshank. Time was pressing as I retraced our steps back through Thurso and onto Forsinard and home. Jon finally arrived today and I met him along the road to Forsinard. Jon had earlier seen a male Hen Harrier which we could not relocate. A track took us through pine woods with a Tree Pipit and herds of Red Deer for company. A grassy field attracted a group of European Golden Plovers. After a short stop at the reserve headquarters we headed home after our night away. Later that night Veronique and Remy added a Tawny Owl for the list sitting in a tree.

May 20th: Loch Garten, Poorhouse Wood, Loch Mallachie, Findhorn Valley, Farr Road.

Weather: Sunny with a westerly wind 10 C/22 C.

Today we set off early to the Caper Watch at Loch Garten. Our arrival meant we were first in line and allowed us a good position in the hide. The Capercaillie failed to appear although we had good views of Osprey, Great Spotted Woodpecker and Coal Tit. Disappointed we headed to Grantown for breakfast followed by a visit to woodland nearby. After a lot of searching I found a male Caperciallie (with Veronique) but he flew off deep into the pine woods never to be seen again. Also present in the wood were Common Redstart, Willow Warbler, Tree Pipit, Song and Mistle Thrushes and Coal Tits. Returned to Speyside visiting Loch Mallachie where a pair of Crested Tits were feeding young in an old Caledonian Pine. We also added Eurasian Treecreeper and Spotted Flycatcher to the bird list. After lunch we headed up the Findhorn Valley recording White-throated Dipper, Common Tern, Common Sandpiper, Osprey and fleeting views of a male Hen Harrier. At the end we stopped and scanned areas for birds without success. The day ended with a visit to the Farr Road where we had excellent views of Red Grouse. Headed home after a slightly frustrating but rewarding day in Speyside.

May 21st: Cairngorm, Loch Morlich, Loch Garten, Poorhouse Wood.

Weather: Sunny with southwest winds 22 C.

Our final day with the first visit being to Cairngorm. On arrival we set off from the car park to the high plateau along the well-worn trail system. On the lower slopes records of Red Grouse, Northern Wheatear and Meadow Pipit. On entering the stony and rocky slopes with patches of grass we found pairs of Rock Ptarmigans which allowed a close approach. Once on the summit a scan of the extensive grasslands started. Huw was on form today as he located a female Eurasian Dotterel slowly feeding and walking a few yards away. The bird allowed a close approach and was promptly joined by three other birds. Delighted with this we returned to the van and headed down to Loch Morlich. On the loch we quickly located Common Goldeneyes at one of its few Scottish strongholds. We dropped in at Loch Garten again and a further stop at Poorhouse Wood. Luck had deserted us regarding Capercaillie so we headed back to Cygnus House on the Black Isle for our final dinner of the week.

For details of the full species list or to request further information about the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com.