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Trip
Reports ______________________________________________________
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This was the first of our week long tours in the Scottish Highlands, and a very successful one despite long periods of cool un-seasonal weather. Major highlights included White-tailed and Golden Eagles, Capercaillie, Black and Red Grouse the former at a major lek site, Rock Ptarmigan in the Cairngorms National Park feeding in a spring snow storm. We also managed to observe several lingering winter birds including Glaucous and Iceland Gulls, Pink-footed Geese, Long-tailed Ducks and a wide range of wildfowl. Summer migrants were generally thin on the ground although excellent views were obtained of Common Redstart and Wood Warbler. In Wester Ross and Sutherland we were treated to exceptional views of Great Northern, Red-throated and Black-throated Divers and returning Great and Arctic Skuas on Handa Island. May 2nd: Nairn, Black Isle including Avoch, Cromarty Firth and Udale Bay. Weather: Rather mixed with southwest winds 13 C. Today was mainly one of picking up clients from Inverness Airport with flight times allowing us to make a good part of the day available for birding. Our first stop was in the seaside town of Nairn visiting the west and east beaches. Offshore we located lingering Long-tailed Ducks and Common Eiders. The east beach was probably the best area with Sandwich Terns, Great Black-backed, Herring and Common Gulls, Ruddy Turnstone and Pied Wagtail being present. We headed inland to have a picnic lunch in the grounds of Cawdor Castle a beautiful setting. The grounds held the commoner woodland birds and a singing Blackcap. After picking up Jon from the airport we headed over the Kessock Bridge, recording Red Kite, and onto the Black Isle with the first stop at Avoch. Not much here so it was time to visit the local Osprey nest near Cygnus House, on arrival the male was sitting in a dead tree giving us extended views. Next we dropped down to the Cromarty Firth where a careful scan of the estuary added Greater Scaup and Red-breasted Merganser. Outside the hide Pink-footed and Canada Geese, Common Shelduck and Eurasian Teal. May 3rd: Achanalt, Achnasheen, Gairloch, Poolewe, Aultbea, Laide, Melon Udrigle, Loch Gruinard, Little Loch Broom. Weather: Cloudy with cool southwest winds 10 C. We left the Black Isle and headed west into the vast, remote and under populated region of Wester Ross. Our first stop was at Achanalt a shallow loch system bordered by moors and stands of birch. On the loch itself a pair of Whooper Swans, Tufted Duck and Lesser Black-backed Gulls. In surrounding birch scrub the distinctive reeling of Grasshopper Warbler and constant songs of Willow Warblers. A short diversion at Achnasheen added Greenshank, Common Snipe and Common Sandpiper. Our journey took us past Loch Maree and onto Gairloch. The sea loch here had Red-throated Diver, Arctic Tern, Northern Gannet. Brief stops at Poolewe and Aultbea produced nothing of note so I visited the jetty at Laide which offered us shelter out of the wind. We were pleased to watch Great Northern Divers close to the jetty plus Black and Common Guillemots in the bay. On the rocky beach migrant White and Grey Wagtails and displaying Rock Pipits. At Melon Udrigle the beach had a few Dunlin and Ringed Plover. A highlight here was a group of Twite feeding in a sheep field. I returned to the main road and made the penultimate stop at Gruinard Bay. The pair of White-tailed Eagles showed well on the island. Back to base after a rewarding day on the west coast. May 4th: Corrimony, Achtilbuie, Bonar Bridge, Golspie, The Mound, Embo. Weather: Overcast with showers, southwest winds 10 C. An early start to visit Corrimony under the guidance of Dan Tomes the warden. By 0515 we were on site watching the rather bizarre ritual of Black Grouse. In total we found nineteen of these majestic birds at two separate leks. The woodlands had singing Tree Pipits and on the track Northern Wheatear and Meadow Pipit. Returned to Cygnus House for breakfast and afterwards to the airport to pick up Peter. A short stop at Achtilbuie produced a flock of Greater Scaup and several Bar-tailed Godwits on the shore. Late morning saw us heading towards Bonar Bridge in Sutherland a small town dominated by a bridge and several river systems. On the latter we located Common Goldeneye, Goosander and Red-breasted Mergansers and a fishing Osprey which promptly flew inland with a freshly caught fish. Other species around the viewing area included Canada Goose, nesting Common Gulls, Song Thrush and a singing Blackcap. From Bonar Bridge we headed inland to an extensive area of moors and low hills, lochs and valleys dominated by oak woodland. On the moors we found a family party of Common Stonechats which have been severely affected by the recent cold winter. By the loch a pair of Greenshanks looking for food. Eventually after a lot of searching and waiting a male Hen Harrier was located hunting low over the ground. Further along the track another stop added a pair of nesting Ospreys. Lunch taken at The Mound where Common Sandpiper, Eurasian Teal and White Wagtails were present. The weather started to close in as visits to Embo and Tain produced little of note. May 5th: Strathpeffer, Ullapool, Kylesku, Scourie, Handa, Balnakiel Bay, Durness. Weather: Overcast with southwest winds 10 C. Today we headed north and west into Sutherland with the first birding stop at Strathpeffer. Usual birds in and around the garden including the last Pink-footed Geese of the spring. The lower pond at Strathpeffer added Little Grebe, Common Coot and Common Moorhen all localised species in the Highlands. On the upper pool at least two pairs of Slovenian Grebes gave us excellent views. In the surrounding scrub Tree Pipit, Blackcap and Common (Mealy) Redpoll. Ullapool was next on the agenda and a shingle spit jutting out into Loch Broom. This was amazing for gulls as one telescope view had Great Black-backed, Lesser Black-backed, Glaucous, Iceland, Herring and Common Gulls. Our journey took us to the village of Kylesku where Arctic Terns were numerous offshore and flocks of Common Eiders near the mussel ropes. Another stop shortly afterwards added a pair of Black-throated Divers fishing quietly on an isolated lochan. Lunch taken at Scourie overlooking the bay with Red-throated Divers, Razorbill, Common Guillemot and European Shags. I arrived at Tarbert the departure point for Handa Island at 1400 hours. The short boat trip across added Great Northern Diver and Black Guillemot to the day list. Once on Handa we headed towards the Great Cliff stopping along the boardwalk to admire Great and Arctic Skuas establishing breeding territories. At the cliff thousands of auks were present including a few Atlantic Puffins. Other species present included Northern Fulmar, Black-legged Kittiwake and Great Black-backed Gulls. Back to the main land and up to Durness the most north westerly village in Britain. A look into Balnakiel Bay was rewarding for divers, Long-tailed Ducks, Sandwich Terns, Dunlin, Rock Pipit and Iceland bound White Wagtails. After dinner a visit to Balnakiel Farm added Whooper Swan, Eurasian Wigeon and Northern Shoveler although the weather on this occasion was against us. May 6th: Durness, Hope Valley, Broubster Leans, Dunnet Bay, St Johns Loch, Forsinard. Weather: Overcast with southwest winds 10 C. Before breakfast we checked out the Kyle of Durness and Balnakeil Bay. On the former, Sandwich and Arctic Terns, Dunlin, Northern Wheatear and several species of gull. At Balnakiel Bay the Long-tailed Ducks had increased in numbers and Rock Pipits were found nesting in the cemetery wall. Fields around the farm attracted Whimbrel, Rock Pigeons and Twite. At 0900 hours we were on the road again making a stop at Loch Eriboll with good numbers of Great Northern and Red-throated Divers. I turned into the Hope Valley passing through sheep fields and birch wood the latter holding singing Redwings. In the adjacent mountains we had excellent views of Golden Eagle and Raven. Retraced our journey back to the main road and went east towards Thurso where I picked up supplies for lunch. Broubster Leans is close by a relatively new reserve owned by the RSPB. Overhead a large skein of Pink-footed Geese which were understandably wary due to the presence of two Peregrine Falcons. In the marsh a single Whooper Swan. Loch Calder is a short distance away where Common Redshanks and Little Grebes were added to the list. A return to the coast and Dunnet Bay proved to be a good move as migrants were present. The beach had Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Dunlin, Common Ringed Plover, Little and Arctic Terns. St Johns Loch offered us close views of nesting gulls and terns, Common Moorhen, Common Coot and Eurasian Teal. The weather had started to turn as we travelled east and south to Forsinard. Luck was with us as European Golden Plovers and Dunlin were feeding in a roadside grass field. Back to base after our birding adventures in the north. May 7th: Ness Islands, Farr Road, Findhorn Valley, Burghead, Lossiemouth, Loch Spynie. Weather: Sunny with frequent showers southwest winds 12 C. The gardens at Cygnus House had the regular species on the feeders including two Great Spotted Woodpeckers. Due to high winds in Cairngorm a change of plan had to be made for the days birding. First stop was Ness Islands in the centre of Inverness. On arrival we quickly located White-throated Dippers collecting food and giving us extremely close views. On the river Grey Wagtail and Goosander. Our journey continued southwards over the Farr Road with sightings of Red Grouse and Northern Wheatear. The Findhorn Valley offered us little due to the strong winds so I headed along the Moray Firth coast to Burghead and Lossiemouth. At the former passing Northern Gannets, Northern Fulmars and Black-legged Kittiwakes. At Lossiemouth the extensive tidal flats offered us sightings of Dunlin, Sanderling and Ringed Plover. Our final birding spot at Loch Spynie was good for ducks and woodland species along the entrance trail. May 8th: Loch Garten, Grantown, Abernethy, Cairngorm, Strathconon. Weather: Rather mixed with southwest winds 11 C. An early start was essential as we headed down the A9 towards Loch Garten and the RSPB Caper-watch. Poor viewing conditions from the hide which was full of people meant a rethink for later in the day. Birds on the feeders included Scottish Crossbill and Eurasian Siskin. Breakfast taken at Grantown followed by a walk in coniferous woodland. The trees here were alive with the songs of Tree Pipit, Common Redstart and Willow Warblers. In a quiet section of the wood two male Capercaillie in flight from a public footpath. Returned to the van and went back again to Abernethy Forest near Loch Garten for a short walk within the forest. The woods in comparison to Grantown were eerily quiet apart from a short burst of calling from Crested Tits. After lunch we decided to take the train to the Ptarmigan Centre on Cairngorm. The upper levels had sleet and snow showers and a strong wind. Careful scanning produced two Rock Ptarmigans feeding in the open. On the way down a pair of Ring Ouzels capped an enjoyable visit. Time was on our side as I headed to Strathconon and a section of birch wood. On arrival we located the beautiful Wood Warbler giving his unmistakeable song and making aerial flights with a competitor. May 9th: Black Isle Forest, Culbokie, Cromarty Firth, Udale Bay, Milton of Culloden Weather: Sunny with south winds 13 C A later departure this morning starting with birding the gardens at Cygnus House. The feeders were busy with various species of birds including Eurasian Siskins, Tree and House Sparrows, Yellowhammer and large numbers of European Greenfinch and Common Chaffinch. The first stop was at the Black Isle Forest where we heard the distinctive song of Common Chiffchaff, Willow Warbler, Coal and Great Tits. I joined the back road to Cromarty recording an overhead Osprey en route and newly arrived House Martins opposite the post office. In the Cromarty Firth we located Greater Scaup, Common Eider and Red-breasted Mergansers. Time was getting on as we made our final birding stop of the week at Milton of Culloden. A few birds here included Greater Whitethroat, Dunnock and Sand Martins. Dropped Jon and Pamela off at the airport and headed home with the other clients continuing to Mull and Tiree.
This was the second tour taking place in May within the Scottish Highlands. Weather conditions again played a major part in the birds observed. Highlights included a White-billed Diver in Wester Ross, White-tailed Eagles showing well at a site again in Wester Ross. In offshore waters we had sightings of late winter ducks notably Common Scoter and Long-tailed Duck the latter being in splendid breeding plumage. In the far north a marked passage of Whimbrel, Dunlin, Sanderling and Arctic Terns the latter present in higher than average numbers. Poor weather in the Speyside area made the Scottish specialities particularly hard to find although Rock Ptarmigan and a low-level Eurasian Dotterel made up for the disappointment. May 16th: Nairn, Cawdor, Ness Islands, Cromarty Firth, Udale Bay. Weather: Rather mixed with a cool easterly wind 10 C. Saturday is a pick-up day from the airport and I worked around the various arrival times to maximise our birding opportunities. The first birding stop was at Nairn where the tide was low exposing large areas of mud and pools. From the jetty on east beach we located a wide range of gulls, Sandwich and Arctic Terns, Common Scoter and Common Guillemot. From Nairn we headed inland to Cawdor for a picnic lunch in the castle grounds. A few of the commoner species were present here including Song Thrush, European Goldfinch, Great and Blue Tits. The flight from Southampton was a little late so we explored an area of the Moray Firth near the airport. On the mud we managed views of Common Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Ruddy Turnstone and Common Knot, most being in breeding plumage. After picking Ray up I headed into Inverness and the Ness Islands where we duly located White-throated Dipper, Goosander and Grey Wagtail. After crossing the Kessock Bridge into Ross-shire I headed towards Udale Bay where the tide was starting to come in. Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwits in flight and Eurasian Curlew and Whimbrel resting on the mud. A quick scan of the Cromarty Firth added Red-breasted Mergansers and Common Eiders. Transferred to Cygnus House our base for the week. May 17th: Achnasheen, Kinlochewe, Gairloch, Poolewe, Laide, Mellon Udrigle, Gruinard Bay. Weather: Sunny with southeast winds 15 C. Before breakfast Pink-footed Geese, Willow Warbler, Greater Whitethroat and Tree Sparrow were noted in and around the gardens of Cygnus House. At 0800 hours we were on the road towards the vast and sparsely populated region of Wester Ross. The first stop at an elevated position provided us with a pair of Whooper Swans, Mute Swan, Tufted Duck, Common Sandpiper and the first Common Swifts of the tour. Further down the road Wood Sandpipers were found feeding in a small pool. Overhead calling Common (Mealy) Redpoll, Common Cuckoo and a constant flow of Meadow Pipits. On arriving in Achnasheen I diverted a short distance to another lochan where we located Greenshank and Eurasian Teal. The highlight however was an adult Golden Eagle hunting over a low hillside which gave us all great views. Our journey continued to Kinlochewe where a Spotted Flycatcher was located sitting high in a fir tree. We continued onto the coastal village of Gairloch and searched the sea loch for interesting birds. In the loch Great Northern and Red-throated Divers, Common Guillemot, Razorbill and European Shag. A shingle spit attracted Common and Arctic Terns, Eurasian Oystercatcher and Rock Pipit. A short stop at Poolewe added nothing of note so we headed towards Laide for lunch. The location here is well protected from the wind and made an ideal stop to search for bird life. Offshore Northern Fulmar, Atlantic Puffin and a few Greylag Geese passing overhead. Further down the road we entered Mellon Udrigle with Twite feeding and flying adjacent to a sheep field and freshwater burn. Walked down onto the sandy beach and started scanning the bay for birds. Ray picked up an unusual diver species so we walked to an elevated position for better views. After relocating the bird it was identified as a first year White-billed Diver – a nice find in Wester Ross. Also present in the area were Great Skua and a Whimbrel resting on the beach. Our final birding spot was Gruinard Bay which separates the island of the same name from the mainland. After careful searching White-tailed Eagles were located with one in trees and another perched high up on the island, a fitting end to the day. May 18th: Corrimony, Bonar Bridge, Strathcairn, Loch Fleet, Embo, Black Isle, Udale Bay. Weather: Overcast with heavy rain showers southeast wind 14 C. The first early start of the week in order to visit Corrimony. On arrival we met up with Dan Tomes and set off into this interesting reserve of woodland and moors. Black Grouse duly obliged at two separate leks totalling twenty birds. Few birds around due to poor and cool weather conditions so we headed to Dingwall for an earlier than planned breakfast. Afterwards we set off to Bonar Bridge where on arrival an Osprey was fishing in the river system. Trees around the car park held a singing Blackcap and Willow Warblers. Beyond the village we entered the extensive moors dotted with an occasional loch and tree-lined glens. At the first observation point we were met by a party of European Stonechats and in the distance a solitary Red Grouse. Further along the road a fine male Hen Harrier was located by Jackie as it dropped into cover, it appeared again later giving us all excellent views. We dropped down towards The Mound for lunch where Greenshank and Lesser Black-backed Gulls were added to the tour list. The weather had started to change as we made short visits to Embo and Tain without too much success. News of a Eurasian Dotterel near Cygnus House made my mind up to see this often difficult to see species. Around sixty minutes later we were watching this beautiful bird in a wheat field east of Cromarty. Towards home another stop adjacent to the Cromarty Firth yielded a flock of Long-tailed Ducks and Greater Scaup, both to be the last sightings of the spring. Careful scanning added Red-throated Diver and Common Eider to compliment the day. May 19th: Strathpeffer, Ullapool, Ledmore, Kylesku, Scourie, Handa, Balnakiel Bay, Balnakiel Farm. Weather: Sunny with southeast winds 17 C. This morning we left for extreme northwest Sutherland and our overnight stop at Durness. First of all a visit to the lochans near Strathpeffer with the lower one having singing Sedge Warbler, Little Grebe and Common Moorhen. On the upper lochan we were treated to close views of Slavonian Grebes, Tufted Duck, Sand Martin and Common (Mealy) Redpoll. Ullapool held very few birds apart from the commoner gulls so I headed to the cliffs at Ledmore. Raven and Common Buzzard floating around the cliffs the former with several well grown young. A short stop at Kylesku was productive for Arctic Terns and Common Eiders. Lunch taken at Scourie overlooking the picturesque bay with Red-throated Divers, Razorbill, Ringed Plover, Herring, Great Black-backed, Lesser Black-backed and Common Gulls for company. At 1400 hours we arrived at Tarbert the departure point for Handa Island. On arrival the walk towards the Great Cliff was highly enjoyable with Northern Wheatears and Meadow Pipits on the first grassy slope. Two magical moments followed when we witnessed a Common Snipe sitting motionless in a ditch, close views as it walked away slowly into cover. Two hundred metres further a male Red Grouse allowed an extremely close approach as he wandered slowly up the track and into cover (leading us away from the hidden female). Beyond this point we regularly encountered Great Skuas either sitting on territory of bathing in a freshwater lochan. A bonus was several Arctic Skuas in both pale and dark phase plumages. On arrival at the cliff top Northern Fulmars, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Common Guillemot (including a few bridled forms), Razorbill and Atlantic Puffins. Returned to the mainland and the village of Durness our base for the night. A quick check of Balnakiel Bay produced nothing of note so we checked in and arranged to visit Balnakiel Farm after dinner. The wind had dropped making viewing ideal at this nationally important wetland site. On arrival we witnessed a group of Whimbrel flying northwest towards Iceland. On the marsh Whooper Swan, Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Eurasian Teal, Mallard, a party of c20 Pink-footed Geese and best of all a Wood Sandpiper feeding quietly in a pool. A European Golden Plover was also located feeding near one of the many stone walls. Returned to base at 2200 hours with the light just starting to fade away. May 20th: Balnakiel Bay, Loch Eriboll, Hope Valley, Broubster Leans, Loch Calder, St Johns Loch, Dunnet Bay, Sandside Bay, Forsinard. Weather: Rain showers and a southwest wind 15 C. Outside the guest house the distinctive song of a Sedge Warbler and Song Thrush. First stop was the Kyle of Durness where we located Sandwich and Arctic Terns and Dunlin on the beach. A return visit to Balnakiel had similar birds to the previous evening although no sign of the Wood Sandpiper. Back for breakfast followed by the journey east towards Loch Eriboll a long sea loch used for mussel and fish farming. On the loch Great Northern and Red-throated Divers, Red-breasted Merganser and Common Eider. I turned down into the Hope Valley and stopped in an open area holding European Stonechat, on the loch edge Common Sandpiper and Greenshank. Luck was with us as a Golden Eagle cruised along a nearby hillside. Our journey took us to Thurso and onto Broubster Leans and Loch Calder the latter having Little Grebe, Tufted Duck and a calling Water Rail. The weather had turned into steady rain as we visited the hide at St Johns Loch. Close views of Arctic Terns nesting on installed rafts. Dunnet Bay was again a good spot for birds with Red-throated Divers in the bay, Sanderling and Common Ringed Plover on the beach. Time was starting to run out as we made a short visit to Sandside Bay near Dounreay. Displaying Dunlin on the beach here was a memorable event. I decided to go back home through the Flow Country and a remote road to the A9. In the former European Golden Plovers and to our surprise a pair of Common Scoters on a lochan. The remote road had herds of Red Deer but little in the way of bird life. May 21st: Cairngorm, Loch Morlich, Nethybridge, Strathconon, Dingwall. Weather: Overcast with southwest winds 13 C. After checking the weather forecasts we headed to Cairngorm National Park and walked up the shorter of the two paths into the mountains. Bird density is always low here with the lower slopes holding Northern Wheatear, Meadow Pipit and Red Grouse. Higher up the habitat is dominated by rocks and low grasses the home to Rock Ptarmigan. The bird is a master of disguise with its intricate camouflage. We heard several and eventually tracked one down which was actually behind us! Retraced our route and stopped at the bottom where a female Ring Ouzel showed well along a path. Loch Morlich was next where Common Goldeneyes were seen on the far bank. A diversion at Nethybridge produced a pair of Tree Pipits. Back towards Inverness and into Strathconon a scenic glen near Dingwall. In the birch woods a brief view of Wood Warblers (no song as they had paired up since early May). On the return I found a male Whinchat in a roadside tree this was indeed an unexpected and welcome find. The final birding spot was the River Conon at Dingwall. On the mud and grass lingering Pink-footed Geese, Northern Lapwing and a solitary Whooper Swan. The reeds and elm trees attracted Tree Sparrow and Reed Buntings among the commoner species. Back to base after an interesting birding day in the Highlands. May 22nd: Grantown, Abernethy, Loch Garten, Burghead, Lossiemouth, Black Isle. Weather: Sunny with southwest winds 15 C. An early start in order to visit the conifer woodlands near Grantown. En route a Eurasian Woodcock was flushed from the roadside near Killen. Arrived at 5am and started walking the trails recording Tree Pipits and Common Redstarts the latter singing from the tree tops. Other species present included Song and Mistle Thrushes, Great and Coal Tits and Great Spotted Woodpecker. No sign on this visit of Capercaillie. Late breakfast in Grantown followed by visits to Abernethy and Loch Garten, both being remarkably quiet for birds. I decided to cut our losses and head to the coast at Burghead. Usual species offshore and Rock Pipits along the shore line. Lossiemouth had hundreds of gulls present but no waders, off the harbour a pair of lingering Long-tailed Ducks gave us extended views. Returned to the Black Isle visiting an area of forest, no sign of any crossbills which is always worrying after the breeding season. May 23rd: Easter Ross including Nigg Bay, Portmahomack, Tarbatness Weather: Sunny with south winds 13 C Mainly a departure day for everybody with Frank and Jackie doing some local birding with me until the afternoon. Visits made to sites listed above recording a reasonable number of species but nothing new. The end to a highly enjoyable week in the Scottish Highlands. For details of the full species list or to request further information about the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com. |
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