| Leading
Tours since 1987

BHUTAN
2007
...with
Mark Finn |
This was the second
Birdwatching Breaks tour to Bhutan nestling in the shadow of the
mighty Himalayan mountain chain. March is a good month to visit
as we had a wide range of wintering species in addition to migrants
from further south. Highlights were many but included Himalayan
Monal, Blood Pheasant, Ibisbill, Rufous-necked and Wreathed Hornbills,
Wood Snipe, Beautiful Nuthatch, Rufous-throated Wren Babbler,
Cutia, a wide range of laughingthrushes and scimitar babblers
and mixed flocks of migrant warblers.
My thanks go out
to Rinchen for co-leading the tour and the ground arrangements
by Himalayan Kingdom Tours which made the trip a great success.
The ground crew made the camping experience an enjoyable one throughout
Bhutan in addition to the excellent meals they provided.
I am sure the following
trip report and bird lists will bring back happy memories in ‘The
Land of the Thunder Dragon’.
March 4th/5th:
London - Delhi - Katmandu – Paro
Daily total
24 New trip birds 24 Running total 24
Weather:
Sunny and dry with a cool wind, 14c.
We met up at Heathrow
apart from Barry who was flying up from Australia to Delhi via
Singapore. The flight to Delhi from London was helped by a strong
tail wind. Arrived in Delhi and passed through baggage and customs.
We had a few hours before the Druk Air flight to Paro via Katmandu.
The latter flight departed just after 0800 hours making a brief
stop in Nepal. The Himalayan Mountains were clear today and gave
fantastic views as we headed to Bhutan. At Paro we went through
more checks and obtained our Bhutanese visa stamp. We were met
by our ground agents and made the short journey to a hotel situated
in pine woodland. Before lunch a short birding session produced
Green-backed Tits, Blue-whistling Thrush, Buff-barred Warbler
and Oriental Turtle Doves. Lunch taken in Paro followed by a gentle
introduction to Bhutan's birdlife. On the river White Wagtail,
Plumbeous and White-capped Redstarts and Brown Dipper. Roadside
scrub and fallow fields attracted Olive-backed Pipits, Russet
Sparrows and Grey-backed Shrikes. A section of pine and hemlock
woodland proved to be a focal point for Yellow-billed Blue Magpies
and impressive numbers of White-throated Laughing-thrushes. An
earlier return due to travel was appreciated. In the gardens a
pair of Blue-fronted Redstarts and Goldcrests singing from conifers
(hard to see). Tomorrow we travel east towards the capital, Thimphu.
March 6th:
Paro – Chele La – Thimphu
Daily total
44 New trip birds 26 Running total 49
Weather:
Overcast with occasional sunny intervals, south winds, 2c/12c
Checked out at
Paro before first light in order to arrive at Chele La an area
of forest and mountain passes. We met up with the 'breakfast crew'
at first light and walked down the old road searching for birds.
In the distance we could here the distinctive calls of Hill Partridges.
The taller conifer trees attracted Common Crossbills and Eurasian
Nutcrackers giving their distinctive calls. Lower down we observed
Black-faced and Spotted Laughingthrushes, White-browed Fulvetta,
Grey-crested and Green-backed Tits and Dark-rumped Rosefinches.
At 0800 we returned for breakfast. On the track excellent views
of Red-headed Bullfinches and Rufous-breasted Accentor. After
breakfast we attempted to drive higher up the road but unseasonable
snow stopped us. We back-tracked down the road and walked into
the forest with views of Rufous-vented Tit, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker
and Yellow-billed Blue Magpies. Open areas used for vegetable
and rice production attracted Common Buzzard, Hodgson's Redstart
and Grey-backed Shrikes. As we had time to spare a return visit
to Paro was possible. On the river White-capped and Plumbeous
Water Redstarts, Common Sandpiper and an Ibisbill flying towards
the airport area. After lunch we travelled to Thimphu the capital
of Bhutan, this was interrupted by major roadworks. On the river
small numbers of Great Cormorants and Common Mergansers. Nearby
cliffs held at least two Wallcreepers searching for food. Our
final stop before Thimphu added Red-crested Pochard, Ruddy Shelduck,
Eurasian Wigeon, River Lapwing and wintering Oriental Skylarks.
Booked into our hotel and later in the evening an enjoyable meal
featuring Bhutanese cuisine.
March 7th:
Thimphu – Dochu La - Road to Punakha
Daily total
47 New trip birds 25 Running total 74
Weather:
Dull and overcast with cloud at high altitude, 3c/9c
We left the capital
at 0640 and slowly ascended to Dochu La a high mountain pass of
3116 metres. Breakfast was taken here followed by a long walk
through deciduous woodland with a few open areas used for livestock
grazing. At the highest point Grey-winged and White-collared Blackbirds,
Plain-backed Thrushes and Rusty-flanked Treecreeper. In the forest
calling Greenish Warblers and the distinctive calls of Great Barbets.
Low cloud affected the birding as we walked slowly downhill. Few
birds were observed apart from Red-flanked Bluetail, Golden Bush-robin,
White-browed Fulvetta and Rufous Sibia. The best area proved to
be a sector of open grass with isolated trees bordering the forest.
Mrs Gould's Sunbirds were active on flowering bushes and trees.
Ashy-throated Warbler, Short-billed Minivet and parties of Rosy
Pipits were also observed and a calling Maroon Oriole. Back to
Dochu La for lunch. At 1400 we started to 'go down' to Punakha
the old capital of Bhutan. An open area below the forest held
large numbers of Blue-fronted Redstarts, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker,
Rufous-breasted Bush-robins, Whiskered Yuhina and Green-tailed
Sunbirds. Further up the slope the distinctive and far carrying
calls of Hill Partridge. Another stop lower down in the forest
produced a calling Collared Owlet and Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher.
The first major town attracted Red-vented Bulbul, Common Myna,
Oriental Turtle Dove, Eurasian Hoopoe, Russet and Tree Sparrows.
Beyond the town White-throated Laughingthrushes, Yellow-billed
Blue Magpies, Rufous-winged and White-browed Fulvettas, Black
Bulbul and White-naped Yuhinas. We turned off to Punakha with
the river having Common Merganser and the two water redstarts.
Checked in for two nights at a hotel owned by the royal family
of Bhutan.
March 8th:
Mo Chu - Fo Chu - Jigme Dorji National Park
Daily total
87 New trip birds 55 Running total 129
Weather:
Overcast with sunny spells, 14c
At 0600 we set
off towards Punakha to explore the Mo Chu River complex. At the
bridge we recorded Ruddy Shelduck, River Lapwing, Common Kingfisher,
Common Merganser and Eurasian Hoopoe. After crossing the bridge
we turned east and followed the river. Agricultural fields and
scrub attracted Siberian Stonechat, Rufous-cheeked Scimitar Babbler,
Long-tailed and Grey-backed Shrikes and the first of many Hodgson's
Redstarts. Careful scanning of the Mo Chu and its stony nature
revealed up to eight Ibisbill, Northern Pintail, Eurasian Wigeon
and Mallard the latter being a rarity in Bhutan. Overhead we observed
c30 Bar-headed Geese heading north towards China. On our return
to base Common Buzzard, Brown Dipper, Oriental Magpie Robins and
Scaly-breasted Munias. Beyond Punakha we found Crested Buntings
perched in roadside bushes. After breakfast we stopped below the
hotel as a mixed feeding flock was passing through. Yellow-bellied
Fantail, Grey-cheeked, Grey-hooded, Hume's and Lemon-rumped Warblers
and Oriental White-eyes were seen. Nearby on telegraph wires Grey
Wagtail and the first Grey Treepies of the trip. Beyond Punakha
is the impressive Punakha Dzong sitting at the confluence of the
Mo Chu and Fo Chu Rivers. Before the dzong we found resting wildfowl
including Red-crested Pochard, Tufted Duck, Eurasian Teal and
a handsome drake Ferruginous Duck. Further down the road a Pallas'
Fish Eagle with a freshly caught fish in its talons was a welcome
addition to the list. We passed the dzong and followed the Fo
Chu River recording Green and Common Sandpipers and Crested Kingfisher.
In roadside trees Rufous Sibia, Striated Prinia, Long-tailed Minivet
and an early Dark-sided Flycatcher. Next stop was an area of open
woodland with flocks of White-throated Laughingthrushes, Grey
Treepie and Rufous-winged Fulvettas. Near a village another wood
produced Barred Cuckoo Dove and a mixed feeding flock including
Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers, Red-tailed Minla, Black-throated
Tit and single Asian Brown and Slaty-blue Flycatchers. On entering
the national park Scaly-backed Forktails searching among river
boulders for food. Picnic lunch taken in the forest with Striated
Laughingthrushes and Rufous-bellied Niltavas for company. Overhead
a large flock of Nepal House Martins hawking insects. After lunch
I located a Slaty-backed Flycatcher and the first Nepal Fulvettas
in a roving flock. Lesser Shortwing was briefly seen before all
of us were amazed by a huge feeding flock passing through the
forest. In was hard to keep up with a vast range of species including
Yellow-vented and White-spectacled Warblers, White-throated Fantail,
White-bellied Epornis and Rufous-capped Babblers. Further up the
road a flowering tree lured Great Barbet, Orange-bellied Leafbird
and Black-throated Sunbird. We were surprised to see a pair of
Kalij Pheasants by the roadside and an Asian Barred Owlet perched
openly in a tree. Time was getting on as Large Niltava, Long-tailed
Thrush and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes were added to the
tour list. An amazing days birding in Bhutan among spectacular
and beautiful scenerary.
March 9th
Punakha - Wangdue – Pele La – Probjikha
Daily total
79 New trip birds 24 Running total 153
Weather:
Overcast with occasional sunny periods, 2c/9c
Outside the hotel
Himalayan Greenfinches resting in a conifer tree. We started the
journey east towards Pele La a high mountain pass. Before the
pass a stop near fruiting trees produced Great, Golden-throated
and Blue-throated Barbets, Black-throated Sunbird and overhead
a party of Himalayan Swiftlets. A short distance up the road another
feeding flock was found with Scarlet and Long-tailed Minivets,
Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike, White-tailed and Chestnut-bellied
Nuthatches, Oriental White-eye and Fire-breasted Flowerpeckers.
The road started to wind upwards in altitude and into a different
habitat. Another stop provided us with views of Speckled Piculet,
Black-eared Shrike Babbler, Rosy Pipit and above our heads a hunting
Besra. Further up we added a rather noisy Crested Serpent Eagle
and a pair of Pygmy Wren Babblers. An area of cliffs with bees
had Yellow-rumped Honeyguide calling and displaying in a nearby
tree. Another feeding flock was located with Chestnut-tailed Minla,
White-throated Fantail, Green-tailed and Mrs Gould's Sunbirds.
At Dungdung we pulled off the road into our camp for the night.
At 1330 we left camp in order to visit Probjikha Valley an important
area for birds. En route high-mountain woods held the 'nipalensis'
race of Northern Wren. On entering the valley we quickly located
Black-necked Cranes numbering around 150 birds. Also present were
a male Hen Harrier, Common Buzzard and Red-billed Choughs the
latter nesting under roofs of village houses. A visit to the information
centre was useful and we then returned to base. On the way a bamboo
thicket with adjacent bushes and trees lured White-browed Rosefinch
and Crimson-browed Finch. Overhead Himalayan Griffon Vultures
flying into roost.
March 10th:
Dungdung – Pele La - Road to Trongsa
Daily total
54 New trip birds 10 Running total 163
Weather:
Overcast with sunny spells 2c/10c
An early start
in order to visit the remoter parts of Pele La. White-collared
Blackbirds were the first birds to greet us followed by Northern
Wrens. Luck was on our side as a Himalayan Monal perched on roadside
road spoil. Further up migrant Alpine Accentors, White-browed
Rosefinches and calling Great Parrotbills. Another area of Pele
La added Dark-throated Thrushes, Hoary-throated Barwing and Black-faced
Laughingthrushes. Back to base for a late breakfast. Afterwards
we travelled downwards locating Stripe-throated Yuhinas, Rufous-gorgeted
Flycatcher, Rufous Sibia and the commoner woodland birds. Back
to Dungdung for lunch followed by the road to Trongsa. Initially
quiet we located White-browed Bush Robin and in a village Black-throated
and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes. We travelled through several
valleys before stopping again. On this occasion we 'bumped' into
a feeding/migrant flock. Usual species present with the addition
of Golden-breasted Fulvettas. Further east Eurasian Jay and Himalayan
Swiftlets hunting for insects. Onto Trongsa for a nights stay.
March 11th:
Trongsa – Tingtibi
Daily total
77 New trip birds 25 Running total 188
Weather:
Overcast with sunny intervals, 14c
An early start
from Trongsa was essential as we ventured south to Tingtibi a
remote area of southern Bhutan. Birds were active from first light
with several feeding flocks noted in the first hour. In one of
these we located our first Yellow-browed Tits of the tour. Further
along the road a party of White-throated Laughingthrushes passed
in front of us a sure sign of interesting species associated with
them. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Brownish-flanked Bush
Warbler and Verditer Flycatcher were observed with the commoner
species. Next stop was near an old palace with flowering trees
on the garden boundary. The trees were full of birds including
Lemon-rumped, Hume's and Tickell's Leaf Warblers. Our journey
took us through a section of terraced fields with singing Crested
Buntings and overhead House Swift and migrant Eurasian Kestrels.
The road dropped down quickly towards a river where we walked
along the road recording Chestnut-bellied and Blue Rock Thrushes.
Near a bridge mature trees proved a magnet for birds with Ashy
Bulbul, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Blythe's Leaf Warbler and overhead
Pacific Swifts being new for the tour. An added bonus was a first
winter Greater Spotted Eagle heading slowly northwards. Lunch
taken at the 'summit' followed by birding in a section of secondary
forest. This was good for Black Drongo, Ashy, Mountain, Striated
and Black-crested Bulbuls. At km154 another patch of forest was
very productive with flowering trees luring Great and Blue-throated
Barbets, Striated, Black-chinned and Whiskered Yuhinas and on
the forest floor Slaty-bellied Tesia. An Asian Barred Owlet was
located by Barry. Time was pressing but further stops added Grey-headed
Parrotbill, White-crested Laughingthrushes, Speckled Woodpigeon
and Spotted Dove. It seemed to take an age to reach Tingtibi our
camp for the next two nights after a 'long journey' from Trongsa.
March 12th:
Tingtibi
Daily total
81 New trip birds 23 Running total 211
Weather:
Overcast with sunny periods, 18c
Before breakfast
we walked down the track towards the main road. Flowering trees
attracted Black Bulbuls at first light along with Barred Cuckoo
Doves and Black Drongos. Up to five Great Pied Hornbills flew
into feed in fruiting fig trees. Another area of trees near a
shack added Fulvous-breasted Woodpeckers, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatches
and Spankled Drongos. Returned to camp for breakfast when we noticed
a feeding flock being led by a Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo. An
hour later we were birding 'uphill' near the camp recording a
flock of Greater Necklaced Laughingthrushes, White-throated Bulbul
and Maroon Oriole. Up the road White-headed Babbler and Nepal
House Martins were seen. After this we travelled around twenty
kilometers before stopping again. Mature trees attracted Sultan
Tit, Black-winged Cuckooshrike and White-browed Shrike Babbler.
Luck was with us as a Beautiful Nuthatch was located singing from
a dead tree. Another feeding flock was found which included Ashy
Drongo, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Red-tailed Minla and Nepal Fulvetta.
Back to base for lunch followed by an afternoons birding south
of camp. The first mixed group of birds added Golden and Grey-throated
Babblers, Slender-billed Scimitar Babblers, Chestnut-crowned and
Yellow-vented Warblers and Striated Yuhinas. Just around the corner
we found our main target the globally-threatened Rufous-necked
Hornbill. In adjacent trees Streaked Spiderhunter, Large Woodshrike
and Crimson Sunbird. Back to base a happy but tired group.
March 13th:
Tingtibi – Trongsa
Daily total
65 New trip birds 7 Running total 218
Weather:
Sunny followed by rain showers
Today was mainly
a travelling day back to Trongsa. Usual birds around the camp
before breakfast. The first uphill section added an Emerald Dove
flushed from a drainage ditch. Near Zhendang a singing Hill Prinia,
Striated and White-crested Laughingthrushes, Little Pied Flycatcher
and above us a migrating Northern Goshawk. An area used for rice
production added Grey Bushchat, and nearby a pair of Kalij Pheasants
foraging in the undergrowth. After Zhendang the road drops steeply
into secondary forest and small streams. The latter had up to
three Spotted Forktails a truly beautiful bird. The road looks
down into a huge valley where a pair of Crested Goshawks showed
well below us. Lunch taken at the summit where the wind was starting
to increase. During the afternoon birdlife was poor due to rain
showers although we had close views of Nepal House Martins and
Pacific Swifts. Checked in earlier at Trongsa although electrical
power in the hotel was still in short supply.
March 14th:
Trongsa - Yutong La - Bumthang Valley
Daily total
55 New trip birds 11 Running total 229
Weather:
Cloudy with afternoon rain showers, 7c
Checked out of
Trongsa and slowly made our way towards Yutong La the next high
pass on the west/east road. Breakfast taken by the roadside provided
by our crew. Shortly afterwards we located a mixed flock comprising
of Grey-hooded, Lemon-rumped and Ashy-throated Warblers, Yellow-browed
and Green-backed Tits, Green Shrike Babbler, White-browed Fulvetta
and White-bellied Epornis. Earlier a Plain-backed Thrush showed
on a grassy verge. The habitat started to change as we ascended
with a mix of bamboo, fir and rhododendron. This provided us with
Eurasian Nutcracker, Black-faced Laughingthrushes, Rufous-vented,
Coal and Rufous-fronted Tits, Goldcrest, Common Crossbills, White-winged
Grosbeak and a group of Alpine Accentors. We walked down the other
side where a first winter male Red-flanked Bluetail flitting between
bushes. Lunch taken in the Bumthang Valley with Blue-fronted and
Hodgson's Redstarts, Red-billed Choughs and Rosy Pipits for company.
A walk down the road provided us with a group of Black-necked
Cranes an unexpected bonus in what was a traditional wintering
ground. The weather started to close in so I decided to head towards
the hotel in Bumthang. Later in the afternoon we ventured out
again. A remote marsh several kilometers from Bumthang was an
excellent place for birds. Wintering Solitary and Wood Snipe were
observed along with Buff-bellied Pipit and Citrine Wagtail both
uncommon winter visitors. Returned to Bumthang where poor weather
had forced hirundines and swifts to lower levels. Close views
of Himalayan and House Swifts plus new trip birds in Asian House
Martin and Red-rumped Swallow.
March 15th:
Bumthang - Ura – Yonkhala
Daily total
55 New trip birds 6 Running total 235
Weather:
Rather mixed with sleet and rain showers, 7c
We set off from
Bumthang and followed the road to Sengor via the village of Ura.
Our first new birds were a flock of Snow Pigeons wheeling below
us in a valley. Birding was quiet due to poor weather conditions
although we located a flock of Blood Pheasants feeding by the
road. Lunch taken before crossing the pass to Sengor, this proved
tricky due to late snows. As we drove to lower levels the weather
improved (although it caught up with us later on). During a dry
period we managed to locate a mixed flock of Whiskered, Stripe-throated
and Rufous-vented Yuhinas and a Dark-rumped Rosefinch. Further
down the road a larger flock of Lemon-rumped, Ashy-throated and
a single Broad-billed Warbler, Rufous-capped Babblers, Green Shrike
Babblers and Rusty-flanked Treecreepers. Near Yonkhala we heard
Streaked Laughingthrushes and observed Spotted Forktail and Great
Barbet. Arrived at camp in murky and wet conditions, a rather
frustrating day birding wise.
March 16th:
Yonkhala – Namling
Daily total
60 New trip birds 8 Running total 243
Weather:
Early sunshine giving way to heavy rain, 6c
In the early hours
I heard a Mountain Scops Owl giving its distinctive calls. Before
breakfast we headed up the road towards the road workers camp.
In the forest calling Hill and Chestnut-breasted Partridges, Collared
and Asian Barred Owlets. The best birding was near a temporary
shack. A mixed feeding flock came into view containing White-throated
and Striated Laughingthrushes, Golden Tree and Rufous-capped Babblers,
Black-faced, Yellow-vented and Lemon-rumped Warblers and both
species of Bhutanese fantails. Returned to camp for breakfast
with the surrounding scrub and trees holding Common Tailorbird,
Grey Bushchat, House Sparrow, Black, Red-vented and calling Himalayan
Bulbuls. Back to Namling with a female Red-flanked Bluetail and
the first Rufous-gorgeted Flycatchers of the day. At the waterfall
two Little Forktails and White-capped Water Redstarts. Namling
proved an excellent area with noisy parties of Green-tailed Sunbirds,
Stripe-throated and White-naped Yuhinas, White-tailed Nuthatch,
Plain-backed Thrush and calling Darjeeling Woodpeckers. Above
the forest Oriental Honey Buzzard being mobbed by Large-billed
Crows. Lunch taken in brilliant sunshine but the weather started
to turn wet shortly afterwards. A bonus came with Rufous-throated
Wren Babbler singing from a low perch and nearby calling Pygmy
Wren Babblers. The finale of the afternoon was another mixed flock
of warblers including Black-faced, Chestnut-crowned, Lemon-rumped,
White-spectacled and Yellow-vented. Near a farm used by cattle
we encountered Golden-breasted, Yellow-throated and Rufous-winged
Fulvettas, Grey Treepie and migrant Olive-backed Pipits. The rain
by now was even heavier so I called it a day and returned to camp.
March 17th:
Yonkhala – Limethang
Daily total
87 New trip birds 10 Running total 254
Weather:
Sunny and clear, 7c/15c
Before breakfast
we headed up the road to Namling with similar species from previous
visits. However we did add an active party of Greater Rufous-headed
Parrotbills feeding in stands of bamboo. Down the road close views
of Sultan Tits and a Lesser Yellownape looking for insects in
a spindly tree. After breakfast we travelled down to Limethang
a sizeable town in Eastern Bhutan. We stopped to admire a Slaty-backed
Forktail on a roadside stream. In trees below Rufous-necked Hornbill.
Above the forest displaying Crested Serpent Eagles. We walked
down the road and found another feeding flock including Black-eared
Shrike Babbler, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrikes, Ashy Bulbul, Nepal
Fulvetta, Golden Tree Babblers, Little Pied Flycatcher and a flock
of White-rumped Munias. An area of scrub and farmland attracted
Pale Blue Flycatcher and Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes. At Limethang
we walked along the river recording the commoner forest birds
plus a single Mountain Bulbul. Back to camp for lunch followed
by another foray uphill towards Namling. This proved to be successful
for Striated and Streaked Laughingthrushes, Red-faced Liochichla,
Rusty-fronted Barwing and a female Sapphire Flycatcher. Overhead
the first Mountain Hawk Eagle of the tour. Further stops produced
mixed feeding flocks of warblers including Chestnut-crowned, Grey-cheeked
and Black-faced. Tomorrow we travel further east towards Trashigang.
March 18th:
Yonkhala – Trashigang
Daily total
100 New trip birds 11 Running total 265
Weather:
Sunny and clear, 15c
Our last morning
at camp before setting off to Trashigang the major town in Eastern
Bhutan. Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes in bushes were the first
addition to the list. We stopped at our favourite locations en
route to Limethang recording the commoner species. Beyond Limethang
the road ascends through pine woods where we stopped at an area
of broad-leafed woodland. Below us we recorded Pygmy Blue, Blue-throated
and Blue-fronted Flycatchers and fleeting glimpses of a Green
Magpie. Further up a fine Bonelli's Eagle circled above us. We
stopped in Mongar for fuel and to observe an archery competition
taking place on a football ground. Nearby Barn Swallows and singing
Hill Prinias. The road to Trashigang descends through incredible
gorges and small farms dotted with isolated trees. The latter
held Grey-winged Blackbird, Brown-throated Treecreeper, Grey-sided
Laughingthrushes and Little Bunting. Mixed flocks of warblers
were common in deciduous woodland. Before the border post close
views of Wallcreepers. Eventually we arrived at Trashigang a lively
town with numerous amenities. An incredible birding day in Bhutan.
March 19th:
Trashigang – Narphung
Daily total
68 New trip birds 3 Running total 268
Weather:
Sunny periods with mist, 14c
A later start
today from Trashigang to Neblu. Outside the hotel groups of Red-rumped
Swallows perched on telegraph wires. Our journey from Trashigang
took us through extensive areas of land used for farming and rice
production. Few birds in this habitat although we had good views
of Mountain Hawk Eagles and a wintering Upland Buzzard. In woodland
we encountered Little Buntings and Tibetan Siskin. Birding was
quiet along the road with no feeding flocks. Before lunch we located
White-browed Shrike Babbler, Chestnut-crowned Warblers and the
commoner migrants. At the lunch spot Eurasian Hoopoe and hunting
Eurasian Kestrels. During the afternoon we travelled along windy
and sometimes precipitous roads towards the border with India.
Several flocks were encountered along the way plus sightings of
Asian Black Eagle and Darjeeling Woodpecker. Near Neblu we came
across a mixed flock of laughingthrushes including White-throated,
Streaked and Grey-sided. Our final camp in Bhutan was close by
where we spend the night.
March 20th:
Narphung - Sandpur Jongkhar
Daily total
85 New trip birds 14 Running total 282
Weather:
Warm and sunny, 25c
Over the camp
at first light a marked northward passage of Little Buntings.
We then set off for c5km north of Narphung searching for birds.
Usual species around with Brownish-flanked Bush Warblers singing
from hillsides. The only new species for the tour was a juvenile
Rufous-bellied Eagle perched in a dead tree. After breakfast we
joined the road south towards Sandpur Jongkhar on the border with
India. The road passes through areas of forest and farmland and
meanders along steep valleys. Near Narphung we heard the distinctive
calls of Rufous-throated Partridges and a party of Pacific Swifts.
The best stretch of forest added a pair of Cutia, Crimson-breasted
Woodpeckers and two Wreathed Hornbills. After lunch we decided
to head towards the hotel in Sandpur Jonghar and book in early
due to high temperatures. Checking in was a slow process. At 1600
we ventured out again stopping by the river. Roadside trees held
Common Myna and Chestnut-tailed Starlings. On the river Indian
Pond Heron, Little Egret, Asian Pied Starling and Jungle Myna.
By the weir Common Sandpiper, Grey Wagtail and Common Kingfisher.
We ventured upriver recording Crested Kingfisher, Green Sandpiper
and Black-backed Forktail by the immigration offices. On telegraph
wires White-throated Kingfishers and high above us in dead trees
two Hill Mynas. Returned to base with tomorrow being our final
day in Bhutan.
March 21st:
Sandpur Jonghar and nearby areas
Daily total
67 New trip birds 19 Final total 301
Weather:
Hot and sunny, 30c
Our last full
day in Bhutan started at 0600 with visits to birding spots below
the police compound. We located Lineated Barbet, Asian Fairy Bluebirds,
Black-naped Monarchs and Rufescent Prinias plus Lesser Racket-tailed
Drongos, Large Woodshrikes and Crimson Sunbirds. Near the police
compound we added the only Common Iora of the tour and a party
of Ashy Woodswallows. Breakfast taken by a river with adjacent
forest where we observed White-tailed Robin and White-throated
Bulbuls. After breakfast we walked down a track past the local
slaughterhouse (disused) into a river area and forest. Dense undergrowth
provided us with views of White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Grey-throated
and Striped-tit Babblers, Ashy Bulbul and Common Tailorbird. Walking
up the river bed added a wintering Black Redstart, White-rumped
Sharma, Large-billed Leaf Warbler and overhead a pair of displaying
Oriental Honey Buzzards. Walking upstream to a shaded area was
a bonus with at least two Blythe's Kingfishers, Common Kingfisher,
Red-whiskered Bulbul and Slaty Blue Flycatcher. An Oriental Pied
Hornbill flew above us as we headed back to camp for lunch. It
was very hot and I decided to resume birding at 1500 hours. We
drove uphill for a few kilometers before walking back down again.
The first Asian Palm Swifts were followed by Pin-tailed Green
Pigeon and Grey-capped Woodpeckers in fruiting trees. Back to
Sandpur Jonghar where we completed customs and passport formalities
for tomorrow. At the border post Yellow-footed Green Pigeon in
leafy trees. At the end of the day we said goodbyes to our ground
crew and a farewell meal in Bhutan.
March 22nd:
Sandpur Jonghar - Guwahati – Delhi
We crossed the
border into India at 0830 and made the journey to Guwahati the
main hub in Assam. En route we noted the commoner Indian birds
in addition to two Great Adjutants, Asian Openbill and Black-eared
Kites. We managed to switch to an earlier flight to Delhi which
was a relief for us all. The flight with British Airways arrived
30 minutes early on March 23rd. The end to a fascinating and enjoyable
tour to Bhutan.
For details of
the full species list or to request further information about
the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com.
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