Leading Tours since 1987

BHUTAN 2007

...with Mark Finn

March 4th-22nd

This was the second Birdwatching Breaks tour to Bhutan nestling in the shadow of the mighty Himalayan mountain chain. March is a good month to visit as we had a wide range of wintering species in addition to migrants from further south. Highlights were many but included Himalayan Monal, Blood Pheasant, Ibisbill, Rufous-necked and Wreathed Hornbills, Wood Snipe, Beautiful Nuthatch, Rufous-throated Wren Babbler, Cutia, a wide range of laughingthrushes and scimitar babblers and mixed flocks of migrant warblers.

My thanks go out to Rinchen for co-leading the tour and the ground arrangements by Himalayan Kingdom Tours which made the trip a great success. The ground crew made the camping experience an enjoyable one throughout Bhutan in addition to the excellent meals they provided.

I am sure the following trip report and bird lists will bring back happy memories in ‘The Land of the Thunder Dragon’.

March 4th/5th: London - Delhi - Katmandu – Paro

Daily total 24 New trip birds 24 Running total 24

Weather: Sunny and dry with a cool wind, 14c.

We met up at Heathrow apart from Barry who was flying up from Australia to Delhi via Singapore. The flight to Delhi from London was helped by a strong tail wind. Arrived in Delhi and passed through baggage and customs. We had a few hours before the Druk Air flight to Paro via Katmandu. The latter flight departed just after 0800 hours making a brief stop in Nepal. The Himalayan Mountains were clear today and gave fantastic views as we headed to Bhutan. At Paro we went through more checks and obtained our Bhutanese visa stamp. We were met by our ground agents and made the short journey to a hotel situated in pine woodland. Before lunch a short birding session produced Green-backed Tits, Blue-whistling Thrush, Buff-barred Warbler and Oriental Turtle Doves. Lunch taken in Paro followed by a gentle introduction to Bhutan's birdlife. On the river White Wagtail, Plumbeous and White-capped Redstarts and Brown Dipper. Roadside scrub and fallow fields attracted Olive-backed Pipits, Russet Sparrows and Grey-backed Shrikes. A section of pine and hemlock woodland proved to be a focal point for Yellow-billed Blue Magpies and impressive numbers of White-throated Laughing-thrushes. An earlier return due to travel was appreciated. In the gardens a pair of Blue-fronted Redstarts and Goldcrests singing from conifers (hard to see). Tomorrow we travel east towards the capital, Thimphu.

March 6th: Paro – Chele La – Thimphu

Daily total 44 New trip birds 26 Running total 49

Weather: Overcast with occasional sunny intervals, south winds, 2c/12c

Checked out at Paro before first light in order to arrive at Chele La an area of forest and mountain passes. We met up with the 'breakfast crew' at first light and walked down the old road searching for birds. In the distance we could here the distinctive calls of Hill Partridges. The taller conifer trees attracted Common Crossbills and Eurasian Nutcrackers giving their distinctive calls. Lower down we observed Black-faced and Spotted Laughingthrushes, White-browed Fulvetta, Grey-crested and Green-backed Tits and Dark-rumped Rosefinches. At 0800 we returned for breakfast. On the track excellent views of Red-headed Bullfinches and Rufous-breasted Accentor. After breakfast we attempted to drive higher up the road but unseasonable snow stopped us. We back-tracked down the road and walked into the forest with views of Rufous-vented Tit, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker and Yellow-billed Blue Magpies. Open areas used for vegetable and rice production attracted Common Buzzard, Hodgson's Redstart and Grey-backed Shrikes. As we had time to spare a return visit to Paro was possible. On the river White-capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts, Common Sandpiper and an Ibisbill flying towards the airport area. After lunch we travelled to Thimphu the capital of Bhutan, this was interrupted by major roadworks. On the river small numbers of Great Cormorants and Common Mergansers. Nearby cliffs held at least two Wallcreepers searching for food. Our final stop before Thimphu added Red-crested Pochard, Ruddy Shelduck, Eurasian Wigeon, River Lapwing and wintering Oriental Skylarks. Booked into our hotel and later in the evening an enjoyable meal featuring Bhutanese cuisine.

March 7th: Thimphu – Dochu La - Road to Punakha

Daily total 47 New trip birds 25 Running total 74

Weather: Dull and overcast with cloud at high altitude, 3c/9c

We left the capital at 0640 and slowly ascended to Dochu La a high mountain pass of 3116 metres. Breakfast was taken here followed by a long walk through deciduous woodland with a few open areas used for livestock grazing. At the highest point Grey-winged and White-collared Blackbirds, Plain-backed Thrushes and Rusty-flanked Treecreeper. In the forest calling Greenish Warblers and the distinctive calls of Great Barbets. Low cloud affected the birding as we walked slowly downhill. Few birds were observed apart from Red-flanked Bluetail, Golden Bush-robin, White-browed Fulvetta and Rufous Sibia. The best area proved to be a sector of open grass with isolated trees bordering the forest. Mrs Gould's Sunbirds were active on flowering bushes and trees. Ashy-throated Warbler, Short-billed Minivet and parties of Rosy Pipits were also observed and a calling Maroon Oriole. Back to Dochu La for lunch. At 1400 we started to 'go down' to Punakha the old capital of Bhutan. An open area below the forest held large numbers of Blue-fronted Redstarts, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Rufous-breasted Bush-robins, Whiskered Yuhina and Green-tailed Sunbirds. Further up the slope the distinctive and far carrying calls of Hill Partridge. Another stop lower down in the forest produced a calling Collared Owlet and Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher. The first major town attracted Red-vented Bulbul, Common Myna, Oriental Turtle Dove, Eurasian Hoopoe, Russet and Tree Sparrows. Beyond the town White-throated Laughingthrushes, Yellow-billed Blue Magpies, Rufous-winged and White-browed Fulvettas, Black Bulbul and White-naped Yuhinas. We turned off to Punakha with the river having Common Merganser and the two water redstarts. Checked in for two nights at a hotel owned by the royal family of Bhutan.

March 8th: Mo Chu - Fo Chu - Jigme Dorji National Park

Daily total 87 New trip birds 55 Running total 129

Weather: Overcast with sunny spells, 14c

At 0600 we set off towards Punakha to explore the Mo Chu River complex. At the bridge we recorded Ruddy Shelduck, River Lapwing, Common Kingfisher, Common Merganser and Eurasian Hoopoe. After crossing the bridge we turned east and followed the river. Agricultural fields and scrub attracted Siberian Stonechat, Rufous-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Long-tailed and Grey-backed Shrikes and the first of many Hodgson's Redstarts. Careful scanning of the Mo Chu and its stony nature revealed up to eight Ibisbill, Northern Pintail, Eurasian Wigeon and Mallard the latter being a rarity in Bhutan. Overhead we observed c30 Bar-headed Geese heading north towards China. On our return to base Common Buzzard, Brown Dipper, Oriental Magpie Robins and Scaly-breasted Munias. Beyond Punakha we found Crested Buntings perched in roadside bushes. After breakfast we stopped below the hotel as a mixed feeding flock was passing through. Yellow-bellied Fantail, Grey-cheeked, Grey-hooded, Hume's and Lemon-rumped Warblers and Oriental White-eyes were seen. Nearby on telegraph wires Grey Wagtail and the first Grey Treepies of the trip. Beyond Punakha is the impressive Punakha Dzong sitting at the confluence of the Mo Chu and Fo Chu Rivers. Before the dzong we found resting wildfowl including Red-crested Pochard, Tufted Duck, Eurasian Teal and a handsome drake Ferruginous Duck. Further down the road a Pallas' Fish Eagle with a freshly caught fish in its talons was a welcome addition to the list. We passed the dzong and followed the Fo Chu River recording Green and Common Sandpipers and Crested Kingfisher. In roadside trees Rufous Sibia, Striated Prinia, Long-tailed Minivet and an early Dark-sided Flycatcher. Next stop was an area of open woodland with flocks of White-throated Laughingthrushes, Grey Treepie and Rufous-winged Fulvettas. Near a village another wood produced Barred Cuckoo Dove and a mixed feeding flock including Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers, Red-tailed Minla, Black-throated Tit and single Asian Brown and Slaty-blue Flycatchers. On entering the national park Scaly-backed Forktails searching among river boulders for food. Picnic lunch taken in the forest with Striated Laughingthrushes and Rufous-bellied Niltavas for company. Overhead a large flock of Nepal House Martins hawking insects. After lunch I located a Slaty-backed Flycatcher and the first Nepal Fulvettas in a roving flock. Lesser Shortwing was briefly seen before all of us were amazed by a huge feeding flock passing through the forest. In was hard to keep up with a vast range of species including Yellow-vented and White-spectacled Warblers, White-throated Fantail, White-bellied Epornis and Rufous-capped Babblers. Further up the road a flowering tree lured Great Barbet, Orange-bellied Leafbird and Black-throated Sunbird. We were surprised to see a pair of Kalij Pheasants by the roadside and an Asian Barred Owlet perched openly in a tree. Time was getting on as Large Niltava, Long-tailed Thrush and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes were added to the tour list. An amazing days birding in Bhutan among spectacular and beautiful scenerary.

March 9th Punakha - Wangdue – Pele La – Probjikha

Daily total 79 New trip birds 24 Running total 153

Weather: Overcast with occasional sunny periods, 2c/9c

Outside the hotel Himalayan Greenfinches resting in a conifer tree. We started the journey east towards Pele La a high mountain pass. Before the pass a stop near fruiting trees produced Great, Golden-throated and Blue-throated Barbets, Black-throated Sunbird and overhead a party of Himalayan Swiftlets. A short distance up the road another feeding flock was found with Scarlet and Long-tailed Minivets, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike, White-tailed and Chestnut-bellied Nuthatches, Oriental White-eye and Fire-breasted Flowerpeckers. The road started to wind upwards in altitude and into a different habitat. Another stop provided us with views of Speckled Piculet, Black-eared Shrike Babbler, Rosy Pipit and above our heads a hunting Besra. Further up we added a rather noisy Crested Serpent Eagle and a pair of Pygmy Wren Babblers. An area of cliffs with bees had Yellow-rumped Honeyguide calling and displaying in a nearby tree. Another feeding flock was located with Chestnut-tailed Minla, White-throated Fantail, Green-tailed and Mrs Gould's Sunbirds. At Dungdung we pulled off the road into our camp for the night. At 1330 we left camp in order to visit Probjikha Valley an important area for birds. En route high-mountain woods held the 'nipalensis' race of Northern Wren. On entering the valley we quickly located Black-necked Cranes numbering around 150 birds. Also present were a male Hen Harrier, Common Buzzard and Red-billed Choughs the latter nesting under roofs of village houses. A visit to the information centre was useful and we then returned to base. On the way a bamboo thicket with adjacent bushes and trees lured White-browed Rosefinch and Crimson-browed Finch. Overhead Himalayan Griffon Vultures flying into roost.

March 10th: Dungdung – Pele La - Road to Trongsa

Daily total 54 New trip birds 10 Running total 163

Weather: Overcast with sunny spells 2c/10c

An early start in order to visit the remoter parts of Pele La. White-collared Blackbirds were the first birds to greet us followed by Northern Wrens. Luck was on our side as a Himalayan Monal perched on roadside road spoil. Further up migrant Alpine Accentors, White-browed Rosefinches and calling Great Parrotbills. Another area of Pele La added Dark-throated Thrushes, Hoary-throated Barwing and Black-faced Laughingthrushes. Back to base for a late breakfast. Afterwards we travelled downwards locating Stripe-throated Yuhinas, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Rufous Sibia and the commoner woodland birds. Back to Dungdung for lunch followed by the road to Trongsa. Initially quiet we located White-browed Bush Robin and in a village Black-throated and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes. We travelled through several valleys before stopping again. On this occasion we 'bumped' into a feeding/migrant flock. Usual species present with the addition of Golden-breasted Fulvettas. Further east Eurasian Jay and Himalayan Swiftlets hunting for insects. Onto Trongsa for a nights stay.

March 11th: Trongsa – Tingtibi

Daily total 77 New trip birds 25 Running total 188

Weather: Overcast with sunny intervals, 14c

An early start from Trongsa was essential as we ventured south to Tingtibi a remote area of southern Bhutan. Birds were active from first light with several feeding flocks noted in the first hour. In one of these we located our first Yellow-browed Tits of the tour. Further along the road a party of White-throated Laughingthrushes passed in front of us a sure sign of interesting species associated with them. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler and Verditer Flycatcher were observed with the commoner species. Next stop was near an old palace with flowering trees on the garden boundary. The trees were full of birds including Lemon-rumped, Hume's and Tickell's Leaf Warblers. Our journey took us through a section of terraced fields with singing Crested Buntings and overhead House Swift and migrant Eurasian Kestrels. The road dropped down quickly towards a river where we walked along the road recording Chestnut-bellied and Blue Rock Thrushes. Near a bridge mature trees proved a magnet for birds with Ashy Bulbul, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Blythe's Leaf Warbler and overhead Pacific Swifts being new for the tour. An added bonus was a first winter Greater Spotted Eagle heading slowly northwards. Lunch taken at the 'summit' followed by birding in a section of secondary forest. This was good for Black Drongo, Ashy, Mountain, Striated and Black-crested Bulbuls. At km154 another patch of forest was very productive with flowering trees luring Great and Blue-throated Barbets, Striated, Black-chinned and Whiskered Yuhinas and on the forest floor Slaty-bellied Tesia. An Asian Barred Owlet was located by Barry. Time was pressing but further stops added Grey-headed Parrotbill, White-crested Laughingthrushes, Speckled Woodpigeon and Spotted Dove. It seemed to take an age to reach Tingtibi our camp for the next two nights after a 'long journey' from Trongsa.

March 12th: Tingtibi

Daily total 81 New trip birds 23 Running total 211

Weather: Overcast with sunny periods, 18c

Before breakfast we walked down the track towards the main road. Flowering trees attracted Black Bulbuls at first light along with Barred Cuckoo Doves and Black Drongos. Up to five Great Pied Hornbills flew into feed in fruiting fig trees. Another area of trees near a shack added Fulvous-breasted Woodpeckers, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatches and Spankled Drongos. Returned to camp for breakfast when we noticed a feeding flock being led by a Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo. An hour later we were birding 'uphill' near the camp recording a flock of Greater Necklaced Laughingthrushes, White-throated Bulbul and Maroon Oriole. Up the road White-headed Babbler and Nepal House Martins were seen. After this we travelled around twenty kilometers before stopping again. Mature trees attracted Sultan Tit, Black-winged Cuckooshrike and White-browed Shrike Babbler. Luck was with us as a Beautiful Nuthatch was located singing from a dead tree. Another feeding flock was found which included Ashy Drongo, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Red-tailed Minla and Nepal Fulvetta. Back to base for lunch followed by an afternoons birding south of camp. The first mixed group of birds added Golden and Grey-throated Babblers, Slender-billed Scimitar Babblers, Chestnut-crowned and Yellow-vented Warblers and Striated Yuhinas. Just around the corner we found our main target the globally-threatened Rufous-necked Hornbill. In adjacent trees Streaked Spiderhunter, Large Woodshrike and Crimson Sunbird. Back to base a happy but tired group.

March 13th: Tingtibi – Trongsa

Daily total 65 New trip birds 7 Running total 218

Weather: Sunny followed by rain showers

Today was mainly a travelling day back to Trongsa. Usual birds around the camp before breakfast. The first uphill section added an Emerald Dove flushed from a drainage ditch. Near Zhendang a singing Hill Prinia, Striated and White-crested Laughingthrushes, Little Pied Flycatcher and above us a migrating Northern Goshawk. An area used for rice production added Grey Bushchat, and nearby a pair of Kalij Pheasants foraging in the undergrowth. After Zhendang the road drops steeply into secondary forest and small streams. The latter had up to three Spotted Forktails a truly beautiful bird. The road looks down into a huge valley where a pair of Crested Goshawks showed well below us. Lunch taken at the summit where the wind was starting to increase. During the afternoon birdlife was poor due to rain showers although we had close views of Nepal House Martins and Pacific Swifts. Checked in earlier at Trongsa although electrical power in the hotel was still in short supply.

March 14th: Trongsa - Yutong La - Bumthang Valley

Daily total 55 New trip birds 11 Running total 229

Weather: Cloudy with afternoon rain showers, 7c

Checked out of Trongsa and slowly made our way towards Yutong La the next high pass on the west/east road. Breakfast taken by the roadside provided by our crew. Shortly afterwards we located a mixed flock comprising of Grey-hooded, Lemon-rumped and Ashy-throated Warblers, Yellow-browed and Green-backed Tits, Green Shrike Babbler, White-browed Fulvetta and White-bellied Epornis. Earlier a Plain-backed Thrush showed on a grassy verge. The habitat started to change as we ascended with a mix of bamboo, fir and rhododendron. This provided us with Eurasian Nutcracker, Black-faced Laughingthrushes, Rufous-vented, Coal and Rufous-fronted Tits, Goldcrest, Common Crossbills, White-winged Grosbeak and a group of Alpine Accentors. We walked down the other side where a first winter male Red-flanked Bluetail flitting between bushes. Lunch taken in the Bumthang Valley with Blue-fronted and Hodgson's Redstarts, Red-billed Choughs and Rosy Pipits for company. A walk down the road provided us with a group of Black-necked Cranes an unexpected bonus in what was a traditional wintering ground. The weather started to close in so I decided to head towards the hotel in Bumthang. Later in the afternoon we ventured out again. A remote marsh several kilometers from Bumthang was an excellent place for birds. Wintering Solitary and Wood Snipe were observed along with Buff-bellied Pipit and Citrine Wagtail both uncommon winter visitors. Returned to Bumthang where poor weather had forced hirundines and swifts to lower levels. Close views of Himalayan and House Swifts plus new trip birds in Asian House Martin and Red-rumped Swallow.

March 15th: Bumthang - Ura – Yonkhala

Daily total 55 New trip birds 6 Running total 235

Weather: Rather mixed with sleet and rain showers, 7c

We set off from Bumthang and followed the road to Sengor via the village of Ura. Our first new birds were a flock of Snow Pigeons wheeling below us in a valley. Birding was quiet due to poor weather conditions although we located a flock of Blood Pheasants feeding by the road. Lunch taken before crossing the pass to Sengor, this proved tricky due to late snows. As we drove to lower levels the weather improved (although it caught up with us later on). During a dry period we managed to locate a mixed flock of Whiskered, Stripe-throated and Rufous-vented Yuhinas and a Dark-rumped Rosefinch. Further down the road a larger flock of Lemon-rumped, Ashy-throated and a single Broad-billed Warbler, Rufous-capped Babblers, Green Shrike Babblers and Rusty-flanked Treecreepers. Near Yonkhala we heard Streaked Laughingthrushes and observed Spotted Forktail and Great Barbet. Arrived at camp in murky and wet conditions, a rather frustrating day birding wise.

March 16th: Yonkhala – Namling

Daily total 60 New trip birds 8 Running total 243

Weather: Early sunshine giving way to heavy rain, 6c

In the early hours I heard a Mountain Scops Owl giving its distinctive calls. Before breakfast we headed up the road towards the road workers camp. In the forest calling Hill and Chestnut-breasted Partridges, Collared and Asian Barred Owlets. The best birding was near a temporary shack. A mixed feeding flock came into view containing White-throated and Striated Laughingthrushes, Golden Tree and Rufous-capped Babblers, Black-faced, Yellow-vented and Lemon-rumped Warblers and both species of Bhutanese fantails. Returned to camp for breakfast with the surrounding scrub and trees holding Common Tailorbird, Grey Bushchat, House Sparrow, Black, Red-vented and calling Himalayan Bulbuls. Back to Namling with a female Red-flanked Bluetail and the first Rufous-gorgeted Flycatchers of the day. At the waterfall two Little Forktails and White-capped Water Redstarts. Namling proved an excellent area with noisy parties of Green-tailed Sunbirds, Stripe-throated and White-naped Yuhinas, White-tailed Nuthatch, Plain-backed Thrush and calling Darjeeling Woodpeckers. Above the forest Oriental Honey Buzzard being mobbed by Large-billed Crows. Lunch taken in brilliant sunshine but the weather started to turn wet shortly afterwards. A bonus came with Rufous-throated Wren Babbler singing from a low perch and nearby calling Pygmy Wren Babblers. The finale of the afternoon was another mixed flock of warblers including Black-faced, Chestnut-crowned, Lemon-rumped, White-spectacled and Yellow-vented. Near a farm used by cattle we encountered Golden-breasted, Yellow-throated and Rufous-winged Fulvettas, Grey Treepie and migrant Olive-backed Pipits. The rain by now was even heavier so I called it a day and returned to camp.

March 17th: Yonkhala – Limethang

Daily total 87 New trip birds 10 Running total 254

Weather: Sunny and clear, 7c/15c

Before breakfast we headed up the road to Namling with similar species from previous visits. However we did add an active party of Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbills feeding in stands of bamboo. Down the road close views of Sultan Tits and a Lesser Yellownape looking for insects in a spindly tree. After breakfast we travelled down to Limethang a sizeable town in Eastern Bhutan. We stopped to admire a Slaty-backed Forktail on a roadside stream. In trees below Rufous-necked Hornbill. Above the forest displaying Crested Serpent Eagles. We walked down the road and found another feeding flock including Black-eared Shrike Babbler, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrikes, Ashy Bulbul, Nepal Fulvetta, Golden Tree Babblers, Little Pied Flycatcher and a flock of White-rumped Munias. An area of scrub and farmland attracted Pale Blue Flycatcher and Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes. At Limethang we walked along the river recording the commoner forest birds plus a single Mountain Bulbul. Back to camp for lunch followed by another foray uphill towards Namling. This proved to be successful for Striated and Streaked Laughingthrushes, Red-faced Liochichla, Rusty-fronted Barwing and a female Sapphire Flycatcher. Overhead the first Mountain Hawk Eagle of the tour. Further stops produced mixed feeding flocks of warblers including Chestnut-crowned, Grey-cheeked and Black-faced. Tomorrow we travel further east towards Trashigang.

March 18th: Yonkhala – Trashigang

Daily total 100 New trip birds 11 Running total 265

Weather: Sunny and clear, 15c

Our last morning at camp before setting off to Trashigang the major town in Eastern Bhutan. Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes in bushes were the first addition to the list. We stopped at our favourite locations en route to Limethang recording the commoner species. Beyond Limethang the road ascends through pine woods where we stopped at an area of broad-leafed woodland. Below us we recorded Pygmy Blue, Blue-throated and Blue-fronted Flycatchers and fleeting glimpses of a Green Magpie. Further up a fine Bonelli's Eagle circled above us. We stopped in Mongar for fuel and to observe an archery competition taking place on a football ground. Nearby Barn Swallows and singing Hill Prinias. The road to Trashigang descends through incredible gorges and small farms dotted with isolated trees. The latter held Grey-winged Blackbird, Brown-throated Treecreeper, Grey-sided Laughingthrushes and Little Bunting. Mixed flocks of warblers were common in deciduous woodland. Before the border post close views of Wallcreepers. Eventually we arrived at Trashigang a lively town with numerous amenities. An incredible birding day in Bhutan.

March 19th: Trashigang – Narphung

Daily total 68 New trip birds 3 Running total 268

Weather: Sunny periods with mist, 14c

A later start today from Trashigang to Neblu. Outside the hotel groups of Red-rumped Swallows perched on telegraph wires. Our journey from Trashigang took us through extensive areas of land used for farming and rice production. Few birds in this habitat although we had good views of Mountain Hawk Eagles and a wintering Upland Buzzard. In woodland we encountered Little Buntings and Tibetan Siskin. Birding was quiet along the road with no feeding flocks. Before lunch we located White-browed Shrike Babbler, Chestnut-crowned Warblers and the commoner migrants. At the lunch spot Eurasian Hoopoe and hunting Eurasian Kestrels. During the afternoon we travelled along windy and sometimes precipitous roads towards the border with India. Several flocks were encountered along the way plus sightings of Asian Black Eagle and Darjeeling Woodpecker. Near Neblu we came across a mixed flock of laughingthrushes including White-throated, Streaked and Grey-sided. Our final camp in Bhutan was close by where we spend the night.

March 20th: Narphung - Sandpur Jongkhar

Daily total 85 New trip birds 14 Running total 282

Weather: Warm and sunny, 25c

Over the camp at first light a marked northward passage of Little Buntings. We then set off for c5km north of Narphung searching for birds. Usual species around with Brownish-flanked Bush Warblers singing from hillsides. The only new species for the tour was a juvenile Rufous-bellied Eagle perched in a dead tree. After breakfast we joined the road south towards Sandpur Jongkhar on the border with India. The road passes through areas of forest and farmland and meanders along steep valleys. Near Narphung we heard the distinctive calls of Rufous-throated Partridges and a party of Pacific Swifts. The best stretch of forest added a pair of Cutia, Crimson-breasted Woodpeckers and two Wreathed Hornbills. After lunch we decided to head towards the hotel in Sandpur Jonghar and book in early due to high temperatures. Checking in was a slow process. At 1600 we ventured out again stopping by the river. Roadside trees held Common Myna and Chestnut-tailed Starlings. On the river Indian Pond Heron, Little Egret, Asian Pied Starling and Jungle Myna. By the weir Common Sandpiper, Grey Wagtail and Common Kingfisher. We ventured upriver recording Crested Kingfisher, Green Sandpiper and Black-backed Forktail by the immigration offices. On telegraph wires White-throated Kingfishers and high above us in dead trees two Hill Mynas. Returned to base with tomorrow being our final day in Bhutan.

March 21st: Sandpur Jonghar and nearby areas

Daily total 67 New trip birds 19 Final total 301

Weather: Hot and sunny, 30c

Our last full day in Bhutan started at 0600 with visits to birding spots below the police compound. We located Lineated Barbet, Asian Fairy Bluebirds, Black-naped Monarchs and Rufescent Prinias plus Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, Large Woodshrikes and Crimson Sunbirds. Near the police compound we added the only Common Iora of the tour and a party of Ashy Woodswallows. Breakfast taken by a river with adjacent forest where we observed White-tailed Robin and White-throated Bulbuls. After breakfast we walked down a track past the local slaughterhouse (disused) into a river area and forest. Dense undergrowth provided us with views of White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Grey-throated and Striped-tit Babblers, Ashy Bulbul and Common Tailorbird. Walking up the river bed added a wintering Black Redstart, White-rumped Sharma, Large-billed Leaf Warbler and overhead a pair of displaying Oriental Honey Buzzards. Walking upstream to a shaded area was a bonus with at least two Blythe's Kingfishers, Common Kingfisher, Red-whiskered Bulbul and Slaty Blue Flycatcher. An Oriental Pied Hornbill flew above us as we headed back to camp for lunch. It was very hot and I decided to resume birding at 1500 hours. We drove uphill for a few kilometers before walking back down again. The first Asian Palm Swifts were followed by Pin-tailed Green Pigeon and Grey-capped Woodpeckers in fruiting trees. Back to Sandpur Jonghar where we completed customs and passport formalities for tomorrow. At the border post Yellow-footed Green Pigeon in leafy trees. At the end of the day we said goodbyes to our ground crew and a farewell meal in Bhutan.

March 22nd: Sandpur Jonghar - Guwahati – Delhi

We crossed the border into India at 0830 and made the journey to Guwahati the main hub in Assam. En route we noted the commoner Indian birds in addition to two Great Adjutants, Asian Openbill and Black-eared Kites. We managed to switch to an earlier flight to Delhi which was a relief for us all. The flight with British Airways arrived 30 minutes early on March 23rd. The end to a fascinating and enjoyable tour to Bhutan.

For details of the full species list or to request further information about the next time we will be offering this trip. Contact us at enquiries@birdwatchingbreaks.com.